Category Archives: Tips & Tidbits

A Necessary Evil and A Little History Lesson

If you are like many people buying their first home, or subsequent home, it may be tough to come up with a large down payment or much of any down payment. Whether it’s just hard to save, debts are too high or you aren’t realizing enough equity from the sale of your home, down payment savings are tough to allocate.

Ideally, a 20% down payment is the goal to shoot for in order to avoid PMI or MI– private mortgage insurance or mortgage insurance. Reality is, most people, just don’t have that, so they must contend with the necessary evil of paying for mortgage insurance in their house payment.

But is PMI/MI really all that bad? First, let’s look at some history of down payments.   In the early 1900’s, down payments were commonly 40%- 50% for conventional financing – wow!  Of course, a house back then, may have only cost $5,000 – so $2,500 doesn’t seem like that big of a deal, BUT when annual incomes were approximately  $600-$700/year, that made coming up with that money hard, maybe even impossible

To help stimulate the economy, in 1934, FHA (Federal Housing Administration) came along with an alternative to conventional’s large down payments – they offered a minimum down payment.  With it, they charged mortgage insurance on an annual basis (factored monthly into the payment) and also collected an amount upfront called the Upfront Mortgage Insurance Premium (UFMIP), which is financed into the loan.  Throughout the history of FHA, the required down payment, annual MI and UFMIP amounts have adjusted to FHA’s needs (government loan type).

In the late 1950’s, conventional financing wanted to get in the game and make housing more affordable, so in came Private Mortgage Insurance companies (PMI). This insurance, paid for by the buyer, helped lenders feel more comfortable with smaller down payments.

So what exactly does PMI/MI do? Unfortunately, it doesn’t do anything for you.  It is all about insuring the lender in case you default on your loan.  If the lender has to foreclose due to non-payment, they can fall back on this insurance to help cover some of their losses.

With conventional financing, there are certain coverage percentages which differ with PMI depending on your down payment amount and your credit score. If you use a first time buyer program, with PMI, you may even have a lower percentage, thus a lower PMI payment.

FHA’s annual amount for MI doesn’t vary on the credit score. If you put more than 5% down, you will have a lesser annual/monthly amount for your MI.  Even if you put 20% or more down, you WILL still have the upfront and the annual MI with FHA.

What about getting rid of the PMI/MI? This differs by program.  With FHA financing, you can’t get rid of the MI – it will be on your loan the entire term you have it.  Only caveat is if you start with 10% down, the MI will eventually drop off.

With conventional PMI, it will automatically go away when you reach 78% loan to value (LTV) of the original value (purchase price) of your home – or 22% equity. Fortunately, with PMI, you can be proactive and attempt to remove this sooner than that.  There are essentially two opportunities, but ultimately, the servicer of your loan (company you’re making payments to) will be the decision maker here on whether they allow this.

First, your LTV must be at 80% or less of the original value based on your amortization or actual payments you’ve made.

Or second, if you can show with a new appraisal that you have the necessary equity required by the servicer, you could request the servicer to drop the PMI.  Ultimately, cancelation is still up to the servicer.

So, the necessary evil isn’t really evil at all – it’s really a GREAT opportunity for you to buy a home without needing 20% down, without having to scrape and save every penny you earn. And, if you’re eligible, you could even get assistance for that down payment with one of the many first time/subsequent home buyer programs available in Minnesota!

End result: the necessary AWESOMENESS is that you can get into a home sooner than later due to this little necessary evil!

Need Money for Closing Costs?

Most of the first time buyer assistance programs require that the assistance you receive, for down payment and/or closing costs, is paid back. Usually it’s paid back over a period of time or the repayment of it is deferred until the house is sold or no longer your primary residence.  Either way, the entity providing the funds gets their money back to help the next home buyer in need.

MN Housing just announced a new grant program which doesn’t require any money to be paid back!  As with all MN Housing programs, there are eligibility requirements.  These vary depending on WHICH MN Housing program you use and there are three of them – Start Up, Step Up and MCC (Mortgage Credit Certificate).  The grant works with all three of their programs AND you can pair it WITH the assistance!

In any case, you still must meet guidelines set forth by the underlying loan type you are securing — FHA, VA, RD (Rural Development) or conventional. If you meet those guidelines, then we look to see if we can layer the loan type with the MN Housing program.

Generally speaking, they have income limits that your household must be under, and as with the underlying loan program, there are minimum credit score requirements. Being a first time home buyer is a pre-requisite for two of the three programs – Start Up and MCC.  And the definition of a first time home buyer is not having ownership interest in a principal residence in the last three years.

The grant is only available when using a conventional loan with your MN Housing program. It cannot be used with VA, FHA or RD.  The grant amount will differ depending on which guidelines your underlying loan is following – Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.  Who are Fannie and Freddie you ask?  These are the agencies that provide the guidelines lenders follow for conventional financing.  Your lender will determine the best underlying loan for your needs and situation.

To be eligible for the grant, you must have annual qualifying income under $72,320. Qualifying income is the income your lender uses to determine your qualifications for your loan.  For instance, if you are the only one on the loan, but your spouse is not, then the qualifying income is just your income.  This limit is for the 11-county metro area, which encompasses Anoka, Carver, Chisago, Dakota, Hennepin, Isanti, Ramsey, Scott, Sherburne, Washington and Wright Counties.  Income limits are lower in the remaining MN counties.

If using Fannie Mae, the grant amount is a flat $1,500 to use toward your closing costs only.

If your lender determines Freddie Mac guidelines are your best fit, the grant will vary based on the loan amount you’re securing and qualifying income – (which still needs to be below the aforementioned limits).  The grant can be used for BOTH closing costs and down payment.  Minimally, you would be looking at ½% of the loan size, but you could be eligible for a larger grant if your income meets lower limits set for the program.  Any lender participating with MN Housing can give you further details.

As always, when working with a lender, make sure they offer these great programs with MN Housing and any other agencies to help you get into your house with as much assistance as possible. And who can say “no” to grant money!?!

Homebuyer Education that is an A+

Goodness – there is a lot of information available for homebuyers, especially for first time buyers. You can search online and find plenty of information, tips and opinions.  Your family, friends and co-workers are typically willing to give their advice too, not to mention all the books on the subject of home-buying.

With so much information from multiple sources, it can be a little overwhelming, not to mention daunting. There is a wonderful resource that we have in Minnesota that can help take the mystery out of buying your first home and give you the one-stop-shop of homeownership research.

It’s called Homestretch. The Minnesota Homeownership Center developed a required class for people who want to utilize first time buyer assistance programs.  This class, however, is not just for first time buyers.  It’s for ANYONE looking to buy a home.  And so much has changed in lending, that getting a refresher after being a homeowner for years isn’t a bad thing!

The class is eight hours long, but is well worth the time investment – not only for the education piece, but also it enables you, if eligible, to participate in many different assistance programs. Talking to your lender will help you determine the programs you might be eligible for.

Homestretch is taught in many locations which you can choose from and can be found by clicking their link on the right side of my blog. You can attend ANY class that’s convenient for you.  If you’re planning on doing any special assistance program, like Neighborhood LIFT or NSP, you will need to attend a HUD-approved Homestretch class.  Their website can direct you appropriately.  As of this writing, there are no more funds in the LIFT program.

During the class, you will learn about becoming a homeowner, how to prepare for this “move” financially, determine your comfort level for a house payment by completing a budget, learn about credit, different loan types, home inspections, the offer process and MUCH MORE! I know I sound like a commercial for Homestretch, but I truly believe in being as educated as possible about the BIGGEST purchase you will ever make.

The in-person class is really the way to go. Since there are other people in the same situation as you, others’ questions can help you learn more than you would from the manual you receive.  Typically, the class will have a few different presenters, possibly a loan officer, a Realtor or a home inspector, to name a few.  These experts can add more value to the printed material too since they know the ropes!

The Homestretch class does come with a cost and each agency that teaches it will charge a different amount ranging from $20 – $50 (typically per household). Also, there are classes taught in different languages, so if English isn’t your primary language, you may be able to find a live class that meets your needs.

But what if you don’t have time to share eight hours with new home-buying strangers? Then you may opt to take the Framework class which is the online version of Homestretch.  This probably won’t take you as long as the in-person class, but you will still learn the same information.  The fee for Framework is $75.  Depending on the program you end up using, as discussed with your lender, you may want to confirm Framework is an option over Homestretch.  Some programs do require the in-person class.

Regardless of what method of learning you choose, in-person or online, this class is the perfect “starting point” for your home-buying journey. It’s best taken prior to even starting your pre-approval process or shortly after meeting with your loan officer.

Being educated on what to expect, what questions to ask and things to avoid is priceless. Homestretch is definitely the way to go if you’re looking for the one-stop-shop for homebuyer education!

Worth Repeating for Smooth Loan Sailing

Getting financing for a new home can sometimes seem a little daunting. It seems like you’re on this never-ending wheel of providing your life history on paper – and then when you think you’ve provided the last of it … the lender wants more.  It’s all to help you get your loan approved so you can realize your homeownership dreams.  Believe me, we don’t want to keep asking you for documents any more than you want to provide them!

Another way to realize those dreams sooner is to keep your nose to the grindstone on a few items that could affect your chances of approval throughout the process. The process of buying a home starts the day you apply for the loan all the way until closing.

This blog is a re-do of a blog I did about three years ago – and it’s worth repeating because even though I go through these items with my buyers, they still “fall off the wagon” and miss some simple steps. My goal is to make it so that you know exactly what NOT to do while you’re in the loan process.

First, and foremost, credit is very important – not only on the day you applied, but even at the time of closing. Lenders will pull credit a few days within closing (called a credit refresh – no scores are pulled) to make sure you haven’t increased any balances, opened any new credit (big or small) or incur any new derogatory items.

So, it should go without saying, continue to pay your bills on time; don’t open any new credit and certainly, don’t increase balances on current credit. Oddly enough, don’t close any accounts either as this could have a negative effect on your scores.

Credit reports are good for 120 days, so if your process takes longer than that, you may need to have a full credit report (with scores) pulled again. If credit does need to be re-pulled, lower scores could mean not qualifying for the program you want, increased interest rate or increased monthly PMI.  It’s important to keep your credit as shiny as possible just in case.

Here is the list of items to avoid while you’re in the process relating to your credit. Some items may be unavoidable, so it’s always best to chat with your lender about these or any future changes.  Your lender is your ally – we are all trying to get you to the finish line!

  1. As mentioned, don’t open any new credit – credit cards, interest-free accounts for new furniture, etc, cars, co-signing for someone – anything. Just say “no!”
  2. Don’t close any accounts – this is something you can do after you close on your home if you really want the account to no longer be available to you. But again, it could bring your scores down temporarily.
  3. Don’t increase balances – you basically want all credit card balances to stay status quo during the process – a little up or down is okay. Believe it or not, just an additional $25 added to your debts could make it so you cannot qualify for your loan any longer – and that is NOT what you want to find out a few days before closing!
  4. Please don’t buy or lease a car – refer to #1
  5. Don’t pay off any collections unless your lender has advised you to do so.
  6. Try not to incur any collections. I realize this isn’t something you have control over, BUT, if you happen to get a past due notice during this process, please pay your bill so it doesn’t go to collection.

And what about your assets or your bank accounts? Believe it or not, changes to those could possibly affect your loan approval.  For instance, with many first time programs, the buyer is required to have $1000 of their own money into the transaction.  If there are a lot of cash deposits into the account, the lender will have a hard time proving the money is theirs, since cash is not acceptable for the transaction.

Here are the things to avoid with regards to your bank accounts.

  1. Don’t make any cash deposits. Though the money may be yours, we have no way to prove this. If you need the money for closing, the best advice is to use your cash for bills and spending money so your employment income can just keep building in your account. That is easily verifiable.
  2. Try hard not to bounce any checks. This can be a sign of money mismanagement.
  3. Please copy any checks you deposit that might not be from your work. Better yet, contact your lender first to make sure putting that money in is okay – they will advise what to do in order to document this is your money.
  4. Talk to your lender FIRST before receiving any money as a gift. There are steps to follow and it’s much easier to document forward vs. having to chase down paperwork.
  5. Don’t deposit any unsecured funds. Loans you take out not tied to your 401K or cash advances on a credit card are unacceptable sources of money for closing costs or down payment, so please don’t do that. 401K loans are acceptable and please discuss with your lender if you intend to go this route.

Last, your job could change things too. A few days before closing we will contact your employer to confirm you’re still employed.  SO, the simplest advice is to KEEP YOUR JOB.  If you have the opportunity to change employers or change positions within your company, please let your lender know first.  A change in pay structure, like going from salary to salary plus commission, could affect your chances of getting your loan.  Or, if you’re doing a first time buyer program, a raise in income (though a GREAT thing) could put you over income for a first time buyer program, taking away your down payment assistance.  It’s best to chat with your lender so you know what your options are before making a job move.

Ultimately, as a lender, we want your loan process to sail as smoothly as possibly. With the right current and rudder to guide you (information above), you should have no problems making it to your homeownership destination!

Should You Jump on Too?

The market has improved in pricing and rates are certainly looking good. Just because rates have gotten better and “everyone” seems to be refinancing, does it make sense for you to jump on the bandwagon too?

As with all financial decisions, it makes sense to understand your current mortgage situation. Here are some questions that will help a lender give you the best possible advice on the viability of a refinance and the possible benefits.

ID-100265173What is your current rate now? The general rule of thumb for a refinance to make sense is to drop your rate by 1 – 1.5%. If your loan amount is under $150,000, you may need the rate to drop 1.5 – 2% before refinancing will make financial sense.

Do you owe on any second loans, home equity loans or did you get any down payment assistance when you purchased your home? If you have these types of loans, and your goal is to pay them off, the new loan may be called a cash-out refinance. This type of refinance will require you to have more equity in the home and may have a little higher rate.

If you have a second loan, you may have to keep it depending on how much equity you have in your home. If the second loan was used for a down payment to buy your home, we may be able to use one of MN Housing’s refinance programs. Feel free to contact me if this situation applies to you. I would be happy to explain it in more detail.

What is your home value? Fortunately, the market is improving. Certain loan types will require you have a minimum amount of equity in your home or you may have to carry mortgage insurance.

Will the savings offset the closing costs? With all refinances, there will be costs involved, from the lender, title company and third parties. Also, a new escrow account will be established for future payments of taxes and insurance. Lenders can run these numbers to determine the charges and figure out the period of time to recoup the fees. The rule of thumb is to recoup the fees in less than 2 years. The costs may be covered by the lender (pay a higher rate), covered by you out of pocket, or rolled into your loan.

The last, and most important question – How long will you live in the home? If all the numbers align, but you only plan to live in the home another 2-3 years, refinancing may not make sense.

These are just a few of the questions to really determine if refinancing is right for you. Just because your friend, family member or co-worker is doing it, doesn’t make it the right financial decision for you. I’d be happy to assess where you are and where you want to be, to see if you should jump on the bandwagon too!

*Image compliments of Stuart Mills|freedigitalphotos.net

No Credit = No Loan … or Not?

You hear all over the news and in advertisements how important your credit score is. I agree … your score is absolutely important and has become the first go-to thing lenders look at. We want to know what the score is, how long you’ve had credit and how well you pay your bills on time.

But what if you’re one of those people who don’t have a credit score? It happens, even to some people who have some credit established. Maybe the history isn’t enough for a FICO (Fair Isaac Corporation) score to be generated or there are just too few items on the report.

credit  cardI’m here to give you some hope. Not all loan programs require a credit score. The main criteria – you must meet the eligibility requirements of a Minnesota first time homebuyer program. In conjunction with this, we will use FHA financing which allows us to evaluate credit not necessarily reported to the credit agencies.

Really, what it all comes down to is what you have for debt obligations outside of a traditional credit report. It’s imperative that we review credit for the lending process. This means we’re looking for accounts that you pay on a monthly basis, ON TIME and over the last 12 months. Our goal is to analyze three accounts, but that’s not set in stone.

So, what do we look at? Are you renting? Are your payments on time? If it’s a management company or apartment complex you pay, we can verify directly with them your timeliness. If you pay a private party, such as a private landlord, or your parents, we want to see the last 12 months cleared checks, or auto withdrawal, from you to demonstrate you’ve paid on time. As a tip, if you’re living at home, it makes sense to pay something to your parents, EVERY month, for 12 months, always due the same time (say, the 1st of the month) and by check. This way, regardless of the amount, we can look at your history as a source of credit.

What about other sources? Here is a quick reference list of items that you may pay monthly that can be used to develope your credit history. This list isn’t all-inclusive, but a way to get you thinking about what you have out there and how it can help you get your first home! Remember, these items must be in your name.

Utilities, cell phone, car insurance, weight loss plans, lot rent for a mobile home, renters insurance, health club payments, child support/alimony paid separately from your work paycheck, Netflix, gaming sites, internet services, lay-away or monthly payments to a doctor

Not all lenders allow the evaluation of credit from these sources, so you’ll want to ask ahead of time. The main idea I want to get across is that having no credit doesn’t necessarily mean no loan. It’s best to find a lender you’re comfortable with and one that has the ability to walk alongside with you to make your dreams become reality! I am here to help if you so desire!

 

A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing?

Lately, I have been helping a lot of people purchase their home and it hasn’t been a traditional single family home.   Many MN first time homebuyers opt to purchase a townhome or condominium because it works in their price range or their lifestyle.

When I say “condo,” what do you visualize?  Do you see a high-rise building that resembles an apartment complex?  These are typical versions of condos, and believe it or not, many apartments have been converted to condos, which may explain why they look like your first apartment!  These properties are perfect for many people, but some might prefer a traditional townhome.

Be aware that some condos are like a wolf in sheep’s clothing — on the outside they look like townhomes and feel like townhomes, but on the legal description of the property, they’re condos.  So what does this mean to you?

Simply put, the difference between them has to do with ownership of the land beneath the unit.  You own the land if it’s a townhome, you don’t if it’s a condo.  This differentiation is really a moot point since both properties are part of an association which governs what you can do to the property, or what you can’t do, such as bulldoze it down and build something new.

Most condos have a shared water line.  Water comes into one meter at the complex and then individual lines go to the units.  The water is part of the association dues you pay on a monthly basis.  Usually, in a townhome, you will have your own water meter and will be responsible for this utility on your own.

The most important differentiation may come with financing.  Getting a loan on a condo can be tougher than a townhome.  Many years ago, condos got a bad rap.  Investors would buy condos as rentals and if their rent was not paid, they would let the properties fall into disrepair. Now there is a stigma tied to condos that’s been hard to shake!

Some loan types, such as FHA, require the complex to be approved by FHA in order to be eligible for financing.  If it’s not approved, you may have a difficult, or drawn out process buying a condo in the complex using FHA financing.  For some, conventional financing may be the only option available in this situation.

Regardless of financing types, even IF it’s FHA approved, the lender will receive a questionnaire completed by the association to make sure the complex is financeable.  The lender will consider how many units are rented, how many are owned by one person, what their budget looks like, and most importantly, if the association is currently in litigation.

The biggest thing to take from this is many townhomes are really condos in their legal descriptions.  And to be clear — just because it’s a condo doesn’t make it a bad property type to purchase, or make it a bad investment, it just means there may be some extra hurdles with financing.   Make sure you work with a lender and realtor who can help you be sure what you purchase is a sheep, and not a wolf in disguise!  It will make the financing process go that much more smoothly!

 

Confused Over Insurance?

Insurance is necessary.  Let’s face it, things happen and it’s best to be prepared.  There is life insurance,  health insurance, car insurance, renter’s insurance,  insurance for our pets and we even have insurance for the gadgets we buy.  Insurance is big business because you’re paying for the “what ifs” that occur.  I certainly hope you never have to use insurance, but you’re always thankful when you have it.

As a homeowner, or soon to be homeowner, there are many types of insurance and they can be a little confusing.  Let’s examine insurance types the lender will require you to have in order to obtain financing.

ID-100259033Hazard insurance — also known as homeowner’s insurance or property insurance.  This will insure you against loss or damage to your home.  Lender’s require that you carry insurance for as long as you have a loan, though continuing to insure your home, as long as you own it, is advised.  The property serves as security for the loan and the lender wants to protect this security.  In most instances, your insurance will be included as part of your monthly house payment, but the insurance agent is your choice.  The benefit of this insurance is not only to protect your home, but it also protects your personal belongings (to what extent will be determined by your policy).

Private Mortgage Insurance — also known as PMI or mortgage insurance.  If you have less than 20% down using conventional financing, the lender can require that you carry mortgage insurance.  I say “can” as there are a few first time buyer programs that don’t require this insurance even with less than 20% down.  Unfortunately, this insurance does nothing for you.  It insures the lender in case you default on your loan.  The lender will choose the mortgage insurance company, though most PMI companies are priced similarily.  At some point, you may be able to remove this insurance from your monthly payment, if you meet certain requirements.

FHA loans always have mortgage insurance.  This is NOT PMI as it is not purchased through a private company.  FHA insures their own loans and the insurance is required on all FHA loans regardless of how much you provide for a down payment.  This also insures the lender in case of default and is included in your house payment.  The insurance will remain on the loan for the entire term of the loan when you take out a 30-year loan.

Flood insurance is another type of insurance the lender may require; however,  the chances that you need this are slim to none.  All lenders require a flood certification to prove the home they’re financing is NOT in a flood zone.  If it is in a flood zone, the lender will require you to carry flood insurance on the home.  This will also be part of your monthly payment, if required.

Title insurance — lender’s policy and owner’s policy.  The lender’s policy is required to be purchased on all transactions in MN.  The cost of this is determined by the title company with whom you close.  It insures the lender that they always have first lien position to the property, even if another lien comes up against the home. The owner’s policy is optional to purchase.  It is very inexpensive insurance and is highly recommended.

Insurance is complicated, yet necessary, and there are countless options.  The more you understand the options and requirements  that are available, the better you’ll understand the process of buying your home!

*Image courtesy of Stuart Miles – freedigitalphotos.net

Inspection and Appraisal – Two Peas in a Pod, Right?

The quick answer to this is no, but it helps to understand why they aren’t the same and what purpose they play in your home purchase process.

The inspection is for YOU.  This is the time you can decide to move forward with your purchase, or opt to cancel due to new information, or maybe, you just get cold feet.  The inspection period is the time to reflect on your purchase.

The inspection is NOT a requirement of financing for a home.  It’s optional, but highly recommended.  The cost of the inspection is not part of your loan closing costs.  It is a separate payment made directly to the inspector and can range from $250 – $400.  You choose the inspector, usually with guidance from your realtor.

Most people will make their offer “contingent” on an inspection.  That ID-100270859means, you’re telling the seller you want to move forward, BUT, you first want the home inspected.  Typically, you have a window of time to get the inspection done and that window is defined in the purchase agreement.

The inspector will look for hazards and any immediate concerns, as well as urgent repairs needed after you purchase.    For instance, if the basement shows major water damage or settling of the foundation, this may raise concerns about the soundness of the home.  You may opt to not buy the home knowing that you may be getting into something that you can’t afford in terms of repairs.

The inspector will also look at the positives – let you know what’s good about the house, such as new mechanical equipment or a new roof.  They will also walk you through basic information – how do you shut off the gas or the water in case of an emergency?  How often should you change the filter on the furnace?  They will provide you with great maintenance tips for homeownership.

The appraisal, on the other hand, is for the LENDER.  Of course, you will get a copy of it for your records, but the appraisal is required for you to obtain financing.  The lender wants to make sure that the home used for collateral is not only worth what you paid for it, but also has good future marketability.

As long as you’ve decided to proceed after the inspection, the lender will order the appraisal.  It’s done randomly, meaning the appraiser is not a choice.  This is to protect both the lender and buyer from steering or having influence on the appraiser’s decision.

The appraiser will also look for safety and hazards, but they will also dig a little deeper.  They will compare similar homes – if you’re buying a rambler, they will compare ramblers.  If you are buying a townhome, they will compare similar style townhomes, preferably in the same complex.  They must consider sold and closed properties within a certain radius of the home (typically within a mile) and within a certain time period (typically within 6 months).

There is so much more involved with appraisals and inspections.  Two peas, yes, but not the same pod.  The biggest thing to take from this is that one is optional and for your purposes – the inspection.  From this, you can determine if you want to move forward with the purchase.

The appraisal is for the lender in order to determine if the home is a good risk and will help determine if they can extend credit, as it’s required to secure financing.  In any instance, the hope is that both the inspection and the appraisal are in your favor!

*photo courtesy of hywards/freedigitalphotos.net

You … from the Underwriter’s Perspective — The Final “C”

We’ve made it to the final “C.”  Thing about this “C,” is it really isn’t about YOU this time, as the title of this blog suggests.  It’s about the home you’re getting a loan on, lovingly known in our world as Collateral.

As lenders, we really want to make sure that the home we’re providing a loan on is a good investment.  Certainly, we don’t want to be left owning the home if anything goes south with your payments, but if it does, then at least we know we have a pretty good chance of selling it.

house dollar symbolIn order to determine the quality and value of the collateral, we order an appraisal on the home.  This is a third-party assessment in terms of value and marketability.  Since you paid a certain price for the home, we definitely want the house to at least be worth what you paid for it.

The appraiser will look at comparable properties to determine value.  They will look at like-styled homes.  If the home you’re buying is a 2-story, then they need to look at other 2-stories.  Comparing the home to a rambler, one-level, isn’t comparing apples to apples.  They’ll look at homes that have closed in the last 6 months or less and are located within a mile of the subject property.  If appraising a townhome, they need to find comparable homes in the same complex, if possible.  Similar size and amenities are important for comparison– number of bedrooms, bathrooms, etc.

Based on the comparables, the value could come in higher, which is great for you, but it doesn’t play at all into the loan.  For instance, if you’re doing 5% down and the appraisal comes in high enough to give you 10% equity, it won’t matter.  All lenders will lend on the LESSER of the appraised value or, in this case, the sale price.

If, however, the value comes in less than the purchase price, you may have to come up with more money.  In line with above, if you’re doing 5% down, the 5% is off the LOWER appraised value.  You’ll have to pay the difference between the price and appraised value.  More than likely, your Realtor will go back to the seller to re-negotiate the price down to the actual appraised value. Hopefully, this works out in your favor!

The appraiser is also looking at marketability.  They will look at the home style, location, as well as any concerning factors — like is the home backed up to an apartment complex or an active railroad?  These things won’t necessarily make it so you can’t get a loan on the home, but they absolutely affect the marketability of the home.

What about the condition?  Is the home in decent repair?  Does it have any major issues — foundation or structural concerns?  How about standing water or peeling paint?  Some of these things can be fixed and could become a “work order.”  The type of financing will determine what items are required to be repaired.

For instance, FHA financing will require any peeling paint, in or out of the home, to be scraped and repainted IF the home was built before 1978.  This is due to the possibility of the paint being lead-based.  FHA is all about safety.  If a work order is called, the work must be completed prior to closing in order to pass the FHA appraisal.  What if the seller won’t do the work?  You an check out the 203K loan we offer to help in this situation.

The appraisal is an opinion.  This is why we have the underwriter look at it as part of your file.  Of course, being that we’re placing a lien against the property, the collateral “C” is a big part of the underwriter’s decision.  But, as explained in the last three blogs, it’s not the only “C.”  As with the others, there is more that’s taken into account with Collateral and this is just a summary.

At least now you have a good idea of what goes into YOU from the underwriter’s perspective.  If I can help you navigate these waters, please give a shout.  It would be my pleasure!