First Stop 4 Home Loans

Did you hear about AIG being bailed out by the government?  Okay, this is really old news; but it reminds us of the “horrible” acronym tied to some conventional loans … PMI.  I’m hear to tell you that this three-letter word isn’t such a bad thing. 

Private Mortgage Insurance, known as PMI, is just that, insurance.  It’s not insurance you “choose” to purchase or shop around for and it isn’t coverage for you or for making payments on your mortgage in case you die.  It’s insurance for the lender/investor to protect their investment — your loan — in case you default.  On conventional loans, PMI is required, in most cases, if you have a down payment of less than 20%.  I say “most cases” because some lenders will do financing without PMI, but there is typically an interest rate premium paid for avoiding this.

For most, PMI respresents a portion of your PITI payment (Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance (both homeowner’s and PMI).  There are other options though, such as LPMI, which is Lender-Paid Mortgage Insurance.  The rate is usually  higher to cover the premium so you don’t have PMI in your payment.  There is also  BPMI  – Borrower-Paid Mortgage Insurance.  In this scenario, the borrower pays for the upfront amount at closing.  This is also done to avoid having PMI as part of the house payment.  Either way, PMI is being purchased to cover this loss.

And so you know, PMI doesn’t cover the whole loss.  Coverage requirements are dictated by your down payment amount.  According to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac guidelines, if you had 15% down, the coverage would be around 12% of the loan.  Alternatively, if the down payment is less, like 5% down, the coverage requirement will increase to 25-30%.  For example, if the loan is $100,000 with 5% down, you would be required to have 25% coverage or $25,000.  In case of default, the PMI company pays the lender $25,000.  That’s a lot of money.  No wonder AIG took a fall, or a few.  They were one of the PMI companies that chose to insure higher risk loans — and I’m not talking about less down loans, but those that had other risks as well, such as lower credit scores or recent major derogatory items like bankruptcy.

But you’re a good risk, make your payments on time — why are you being penalized for the bad eggs?  Valid question, but it all plays into historical data.  And history shows that people with less down payment are more likely to default.  When you have “less skin in the game” and things go South, you’re more apt to walk away than try to salvage the equity you have.  I equate this to car insurance.  If you’re male and 21, you’re car insurance is higher than a 21-year old female.  Why?  They have more accidents, thus, a higher risk.  So, the premiums are higher.  And insurance is all about risk.

So why would PMI be a good thing?  I have a few reasons, kindly provided by MGIC, one of the PMI companies we use.  All of the companies that provide this type of insurance offer similar rates, but they may have different guidelines or requirements that make one better than the other.

• It’s affordable.  Okay, so why is this a good reason?  Recently, FHA  increased their monthly mortgage insurance premiums, making them 1 1/2-2x higher than conventional.  And, they charge an upfront premium that’s rolled into your loan.  This is not to say FHA isn’t a good loan.  More, it may make more sense to use conventinonal financing if you have the credit to do so.  Most people use FHA due to lower scores (doesn’t equate to “bad”) , like under 660.
• It’s not forever.  Not the best argument because FHA mortgage insurance isn’t either.  BUT, as long as you pay the PMI for two years, have on-time mortgage payments AND can show you have 20% equity via a new appraisal, you can discontinue it.  FHA, on the other hand, requires you to have the mortgage insurance for at least five years and you must have 22% equity of the ORIGINAL PURCHASE PRICE, which doesn’t take into account appreciation. 

Oh, and another way to avoid PMI altogether is to do a “piggy-back” loan or second loan.  You would put 10% down, get a second loan for your other 10%, which would make up your 20% down, thus avoiding the PMI.  Your payment would be a little less than having PMI, but there are other challenges getting the second loan.  Doable, but not for everyone.

Nutshell — PMI isn’t all bad.  If it weren’t for PMI, we couldn’t do 3% down — or less than 20% for that matter.  Do you have that much saved?  I don’t and that’s another blog for another day.

Are you a first time buyer just waiting to get a home?  Are you trying to save, but finding it tough to do with all your other obligations?  MN Housing has come to the rescue!  Starting around August 16th, with a signed purchase agreement, you’ll be able to obtain 100% financing on a conventional loan.  This just may make it easier to get a loan on some of those homes not allowing FHA financing.

Thankfully, MN Housing realized there was a huge need to bring this back to the first time buyer.  Currently, the most minimum down payment you can do is an FHA loan — 3.5% down.  Conventional financing does allow for 3% down, but the private mortgage insurance is higher.  Due to this, and the fact that MN Housing offers a lower rate on FHA, the payment is lower than a conventional MN Housing loan. 

Now, we finally have a conventional alternative where the payment IS less than FHA!!!  Here are the parameters to the program:

• NO down payment
• NO monthly mortgage insurance
• Must be first time homebuyer
• Maximum household income 1-4 person $83,900
• One unit home, townhome or condo
• Minimum credit score 680
• Seller can pay up to 3% of the sale price toward your closing costs or pre-paids
• Minimum investment of YOUR money — $1000
• Must attend the Homestretch class

Let’s look at an example comparing FHA to this new program.

In the scenario above, you could actually increase your purchasing power by about $4000, which may not seem like a lot, but could get you up to a different price point.  This program has so many positives.  Let’s hope it can help you afford the home you’ve been wanting to buy!

What is the Take Credit program?  It’s a great opportunity to save money yearly on your taxes.  And what a better time to think about taxes when we are so entrenched in them right now!! 

Take Credit is a Mortgage Credit Certificate program, not a loan – it gives you a credit EACH year in the amount equal to 20% of the mortgage interest you claim yearly to use toward your tax LIABILITY.  Okay, so that’s weird … who wants a tax liability?  Wouldn’t it be better to get money back?  Great questions!  You actually WANT to owe money at the end of the year.  To make this so, you would increase your W4 exemptions for federal withholdings.  This way, you’ll get more money back in your paychecks, pay less in for taxes to the government and then, will have a liability that you can use this credit against.

First time buyers can take advantage of this program in the city boundaries of Minneapolis and St. Paul.  You must be a first time buyer, which means you could not have owned a primary residence in the last three years.  We prove this fact by getting the last three years of your tax returns.  Here are some numbers to know for limits:

$83,900 – maximum household income for 1-2 people

$92,290 – maximum household income for 3+

$276,870 maximum sale price limit

There is no “special” rate for this program because again, it’s not a loan.  You will use this with an investor that allows for the MCC.  So I suppose you want a visual?    I can do that, but first, one thing to know if you don’t … 100% of  your interest on your mortgage as a homeowner is tax deductible.  With this program, that is reduced by the 20% credit, so now you can only write off 80% of that interest.  For example (finally, huh?):

$175,000 Loan Amount

5.5% Example Rate on a 30-Year Fixed

$994  Monthly Principal and Interest Payment

$9566 Total Interest Paid in Year One

$1913 — 20% of the Total Interest Paid, Mortgage Credit

That’s a pretty big number to be able to have as a liability.  Think about it.  If you were normally getting $2000 BACK, then you have $3900 to work on getting throughout the year by changing your W4s.  How do you even start determining what that W4 change should be?  You can certainly see your HR person or accountant.  Or, you can visit a great IRS website to run some scenarios.  Doesn’t it seem like you’re taking money from the government??  Let’s not go that far, but hey, I am sure they owe you something!!

A few things to note.  The MCC program cannot be used with a Mortgage Revenue Bond program, i.e. first time buyer program that uses interest-free bonds to give you a lower-than-market rate.  This program DOES have a recapture tax, which I will address in Tips & Tidbits post soon.  You can do a FHA, VA or Conventional financing and the loan must be a fixed rate.  With rates as low as they are on 30-year mortgages, it would be silly to do an Adjustable Rate Mortgage anyway.  Something you may be wondering … is it a “use it or lose it” kind of program?  Sort of.  You can carry over any unused portion for up to three years.  So let’s say in the example above you owe $1000 to the government.  Due to your credit, you owe NOTHING, but you still have $913 to use for next year’s taxes, which means you need to get on adjusting your withholdings up ASAP.  Let’s say your liability is actually $2000.  Then, you still owe the IRS money, but in that example, it’s only a mere $87.  Pretty sweet deal, huh?

One of the best parts??  If getting money toward your liability wasn’t enough, right?  If you do FHA financing, which so many people are doing these days, we can use that 20% as assistance to help you QUALIFY for more!  Yes, you heard me right.  So, using that same example of your $1913 credit.  If you divide that by 12 months, your credit PER MONTH for qualifying purposes is $159.  In real dollars, that means if you kept the same house payment, you could INCREASE your purchase power by about $20,000, depending on property taxes and homeowner’s insurance.

So why don’t people do this program or why haven’t you heard of it?  First, most lenders don’t do the MCC program and why, I don’t know.  There is a cost to you of $575.  You can see though, that one-time fee is WAY worth the financial benefits you will see yearly.  So, if you need help qualifying for more house in the cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis … I can help and would love to!

If you’re in the loan process right now, your head is probably spinning with all the new information.  Throw in there a lot of references to insurance — insurance for the home (aka hazard insurance), for the mortgage company (aka PMI or MI) and title insurance.  Oh, and to confuse the matter more, you can actually purchase mortgage insurance on your loan (in case something happens to you, the loan will be paid).  What the heck is the deal with all these insurances and what is really protecting you?

I am so glad you asked.  Let’s just start with some explanatory definitions, then I will get to the meat of this.  Homeowner’s Insurance is insurance that covers your home and the contents in case of a catastrophe or burglary.  As lenders, your house is our collateral.  If something should happen to it, we want to make sure you have enough coverage to replace your home.  This is a policy you purchase with your current insurance agent or one I could refer you to. 

If you were to buy a townhome or condo, you may not need this type of insurance.  In most instances the homeowner’s association covers that with the owner’s association dues.  There are some changes that have occurred with investors in regards to requiring a separate policy.  If the association’s insurance policy only covers “studs out”, then you would need to buy a special policy called a HO-6 — basically, this will cover the “studs in”, which means, all your personal belongings along with cupboards, fixtures and appliances.  If the association does have the extra coverage, it is still advisable for you to get the HO-6 policy (just won’t be as expensive) to cover your personal belongings.  In this instance, proof of this would NOT be required at closing.

How about the “dreaded” Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) on conventional loans or Up-Front Mortgage Insurance (UFMIP) with FHA?  First of all, it’s not something to dread; it’s reality.  And in this day and time with all the private mortgage insurance companies that had to pay on claims due to foreclosure, it will never go away.  In a positive light, it allows you to do a minimum down program.  Anyway, the purpose for mortgage insurance is to insure the lender in case of default.  You remember AIG???  Who couldn’t forget the insurance  company that was bailed out … a few times, right?  They insured a lot of the high risk loans that were done in the past years.  No wonder it’s harder to get this type of insurance.  Only in the last few months have the PMI companies “let loose” a little to do 3% loans.  UFMIP is for FHA loans.  FHA is self-insured.  They have an up-front amount that is financed into your loan amount, as well as a monthly amount for insurance — which is lower than conventional insurance. 

Last, at least the last I intend to address, is Title Insurance.  This is the CHEAPEST insurance you will ever purchase.  There are two types of title insurance — lender’s and owner’s.  The lender’s policy is required to be purchased to insure the lender that they are in first lien position.  One of the title company’s jobs is to search public records at the county to check for any liens.  The title company can only find what is correctly recorded.  You have the  option to purchase a  policy for yourself, called an owner’s policy.  This protects YOU in the event any liens were to appear against the property that you didn’t incur.  For instance, let’s say that a few owners ago, a new roof was put on the home and the owners didn’t pay the contractor.  In order for the contractor to make sure he gets paid, he placed a lien against the home YOU’RE purchasing.  If recorded correctly, the title company will find this and require the seller to pay it off to give you free and clear title.  If, however, someone made a mistake at the county, then it may not show up.  Bummer deal is liens follow the address, NOT the person who incurred them.  Five years later you decide to sell and wah-la, a $5000 lien appears.  Hmmm — what to do?  You have a few options — pay it (cheerfully I’m sure :-D ), go to court to fight it or … drum roll please … at closing when you purchased your home, you purchased owner’s title insurance.  With this insurance, you pay ONCE, at closing, and it covers you for the ENTIRE time you own your home.  This insurance depends on the loan amount and sale price, but for first time buyers, it won’t be much more than $200 or so.  Paying just $200 to save $4000.  No brainer.  The two real estate attorneys I trust would NEVER let their clients close without it.  They spend way too much time fighting in court for other clients that don’t have the insurance.  Unpaid work is just an example of a type of lien, but there are more “opportunities” to have to use it — heirs to a property, divorce situation, many things that may put a  person in title to the home YOU own. 

The long and short — there are many types of insurance during this process.  The only one you have the CHOICE to purchase is the owner’s title insurance.  It’s a necessary, but cheap, evil and well worth the investment.  Just do it!

Let’s get on our horse and ride out of here before all you-know-what breaks loose with the coming FHA changes.  Okay, that’s a little dramatic … more like a lot dramatic.  Let’s get a grip on reality.  First of all, if you don’t know it, FHA is known for minimum down payment loans.  Right now, and with no change in sight, their down payment requirement is 3.5%.  Being that FHA is federally backed, they have lots of rules and stipulations to follow.

How about we get the “bad” news out of the way first. Please note the quotes. Any FHA loan requires something called Up Front Mortgage Insurance Premiums (UFMIP). FHA is self-insured which means they don’t use private mortgage insurance companies (PMI) to cover a portion of their risk if the loan defaults. This UFMIP is financed into the loan size which is currently equal to 1.75% of the loan amount. The change?? Starting April 5th, they will be increasing that to 2.25%. Why the increase? FHA has had to take a lot of losses due to the high foreclosure rates. They are supposed to keep 2% in their funds for this insurance — they are down to 1/2% — ouch. Hence the increase. So what does this mean to you? Not a lot. It’s about a $5/mo difference in your payment, depending on your loan amount. Calculate that out. $5/mo over year is $60/year and let’s say you live there 5 years — so $300. Doesn’t that seem so piddly? Imagine though that most loans that have been originated in the past 2 years have been FHA. That adds up fast!

This next change is so lame because it will neither help or hurt anyone. Why they have it is beyond me. Currently, FHA doesn’t have a minimum required credit score. The new rule requires buyers with a 580 score or less to put 10% down. OMG, 10% down. Bet you’re questioning what I said regarding a 3.5% down payment from my earlier comment. Reality — it’s a mute point. No investor buying an FHA loan will take a buyer with a score under 620 and some investors are moving toward 640. So, can you say lame with me???

Here’s the doozie that WILL affect you — we just don’t know when. They are predicting Spring/Summer. As of right now, FHA allows the seller to pay up to 6% of the sale price toward your closing costs and pre-paid expenses. Hitting us like a brick in the head, they will be reducing this to 3%! This is huge. Typically, asking the seller to pay 4-4.5% of the sale price gets you what you need. Though the lower the sale price, the higher the seller paids percentage needs to be due to the fixed closing costs that aren’t tied to the loan size. In real terms, instead of just needing 3.5% down payment, you will need to up your investment to about 4.5-5%. Yup, this is really going to hurt in the pocketbooks and savings of the buyers. It’s putting FHA on par with conventional financing which has always limited seller paid costs to 3% (with less than 10% down). FHA does allow gifts for down payment and closing costs.

And, not all changes are bad! Here is the good news — phew!  Of course only 25% of the changes are positive.  Well, that is a bummer.  We just have to deal.  For instance, this change has been effective since Feb. 1.  FHA has temporarily suspended the anti-flipping rule. The term “flipping” has quite a bad rap.  It’s really due to people buying a house at less than market value and turning it to sell for more when the buyer did NOTHING to it to warrant the additional increase in price.  This term gets tossed around like a salad — “I want to buy foreclosed homes and ‘flip’ them” — Whether it’s from friends, the media or even those programs on TLC, almost everyone gets the concept.   The rule, which is suspended for ONE year, said that a purchase agreement on a home HAD to be 90 days away from the date the title transferred to the seller. Whoopie, right? Why is this even important to you?   It’s opened the door to many more homes that you, as an FHA buyer, can actually put in the running. 

That’s about it in a lengthy nutshell! To recap, the two major changes you need to be excited/concerned about is the removal of the anti-flipping rule which is in effect now and the change in seller paid costs with an effective date in Spring.  Just stay tuned for more updates as they come.  And let’s get off our horses and actually enjoy what has changed for the better and sweat about the projected changes when they come.