First Stop 4 Home Loans

Buying a home can be a daunting process.  Throw in the pre-approval process, which determines your ability to get a mortgage.  It’s a lot of work and can take some time, but by knowing the “pieces” to the pre-approval puzzle, you will feel a lot better about the process and hopefully, a lot more prepared.

Ranking #1 is Credit.  You’ve probably seen the ads for credit scores or credit monitoring companies on TV.  It’s good to have a pulse on your score, but there is so much more that goes into determining “credit worthiness” in the eyes of a lender.

Lenders are looking for a few things now in terms of credit, such as history, how many accounts you have, what your payments look like and how recent your history is.  It used to be, which seems like FOREVER ago, that the score “spoke for itself.”  If you had over 680*, you were golden.  Typically, no more questions were asked and no other checks were done.  Not so much anymore

As a starting point, there is a minimum credit score that is required by investors and the first time buyer programs — 620.  Typically, people have three scores, one from each credit bureau.  We need the middle of the three to be at least 620 or higher and we will always use the LOWER of the middle scores if there is more than one borrower on the application.

Along with the score requirement, investors are looking for history of current credit.  We want to see at least three items of current credit on your report.  Current credit is something reporting to the credit bureau in the last 12-24 months AND where there is at least a 12-month history, preferrably, history with on-time payments. 

Here’s the deal — you could have an 80o score, which is awesome, but if you only have one current item, let’s say a credit card you use for gas and all your other credit hasn’t reported since 2008, then your loan financing options may be limited.  Strange, but true.  Technically, if current items aren’t reporting, then that 800 score you have really isn’t accurate.  It’s a dated score because nothing is causing it to be that good any longer.

A few other things can skew your score, such as authorized user accounts and disputed accounts.  Remember that card that Mom and Dad put you on when you were in college?  It’s not yours and shouldn’t be on your report.  It’s not being calculated in the score since it’s not your responsibility to pay, BUT, it could be throwing off our automated loan decision.  Thus, these need to be removed from your report if found during the pre-approval process.

Disputed accounts — most people don’t even remember “disputing” an account.  It could be as simple as calling up your creditor and stating you weren’t late back in May or you shouldn’t have been charged a late fee because you paid the balance in full.  At that point, you disputed the account.  Same thing applies here — it’s not affecting your score AND if this account happens to be in good standing, it’s also not giving you bonus points in your score.  So, in these cases, the accounts aren’t removed,  BUT, the dispute verbiage needs to go away.  

And, though I haven’t said this because it seems obvious, we are also looking for clean credit.  Everyone has a boo-boo here and there — it happens.  We want to make sure your report isn’t litered with bandages and if there are issues, why?  Sometimes, it’s getting beyond a certain time-frame (i.e. 2 years after the discharge date of a bankruptcy) or having a full 12-months of on-time payments since having some credit issues.  Believe it or not, MOST credit issues can get better with TIME.  But time takes time and we don’t always have the patience to wait.

Now, you may be thinking, ”I have NO credit and no score, so now what?”  Thankfully, we may have a solution if y0u meet the guidelines of the first time buyer programs.  We can use alternative credit, so credit that isn’t normally on a credit report — i.e. rent, utilities, phone, cell, Netflix, health club, tanning salon, War of the Worlds gaming (yes, this works!) etc.  Again, we need to see a 12-month history with on-time payments for at least three items.  These won’t go on your report and won’t get you a score, but at least you may still be able to buy a home!

So credit — really, it’s the biggest piece to the puzzle these days since the “crash” of the mortgage world.  But, it’s just ONE piece and there are a few more to come — next up, Employment.

 *scores range from 350-850 – the higher the better

Did you hear about AIG being bailed out by the government?  Okay, this is really old news; but it reminds us of the “horrible” acronym tied to some conventional loans … PMI.  I’m hear to tell you that this three-letter word isn’t such a bad thing. 

Private Mortgage Insurance, known as PMI, is just that, insurance.  It’s not insurance you “choose” to purchase or shop around for and it isn’t coverage for you or for making payments on your mortgage in case you die.  It’s insurance for the lender/investor to protect their investment — your loan — in case you default.  On conventional loans, PMI is required, in most cases, if you have a down payment of less than 20%.  I say “most cases” because some lenders will do financing without PMI, but there is typically an interest rate premium paid for avoiding this.

For most, PMI respresents a portion of your PITI payment (Principal, Interest, Taxes and Insurance (both homeowner’s and PMI).  There are other options though, such as LPMI, which is Lender-Paid Mortgage Insurance.  The rate is usually  higher to cover the premium so you don’t have PMI in your payment.  There is also  BPMI  – Borrower-Paid Mortgage Insurance.  In this scenario, the borrower pays for the upfront amount at closing.  This is also done to avoid having PMI as part of the house payment.  Either way, PMI is being purchased to cover this loss.

And so you know, PMI doesn’t cover the whole loss.  Coverage requirements are dictated by your down payment amount.  According to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac guidelines, if you had 15% down, the coverage would be around 12% of the loan.  Alternatively, if the down payment is less, like 5% down, the coverage requirement will increase to 25-30%.  For example, if the loan is $100,000 with 5% down, you would be required to have 25% coverage or $25,000.  In case of default, the PMI company pays the lender $25,000.  That’s a lot of money.  No wonder AIG took a fall, or a few.  They were one of the PMI companies that chose to insure higher risk loans — and I’m not talking about less down loans, but those that had other risks as well, such as lower credit scores or recent major derogatory items like bankruptcy.

But you’re a good risk, make your payments on time — why are you being penalized for the bad eggs?  Valid question, but it all plays into historical data.  And history shows that people with less down payment are more likely to default.  When you have “less skin in the game” and things go South, you’re more apt to walk away than try to salvage the equity you have.  I equate this to car insurance.  If you’re male and 21, you’re car insurance is higher than a 21-year old female.  Why?  They have more accidents, thus, a higher risk.  So, the premiums are higher.  And insurance is all about risk.

So why would PMI be a good thing?  I have a few reasons, kindly provided by MGIC, one of the PMI companies we use.  All of the companies that provide this type of insurance offer similar rates, but they may have different guidelines or requirements that make one better than the other.

• It’s affordable.  Okay, so why is this a good reason?  Recently, FHA  increased their monthly mortgage insurance premiums, making them 1 1/2-2x higher than conventional.  And, they charge an upfront premium that’s rolled into your loan.  This is not to say FHA isn’t a good loan.  More, it may make more sense to use conventinonal financing if you have the credit to do so.  Most people use FHA due to lower scores (doesn’t equate to “bad”) , like under 660.
• It’s not forever.  Not the best argument because FHA mortgage insurance isn’t either.  BUT, as long as you pay the PMI for two years, have on-time mortgage payments AND can show you have 20% equity via a new appraisal, you can discontinue it.  FHA, on the other hand, requires you to have the mortgage insurance for at least five years and you must have 22% equity of the ORIGINAL PURCHASE PRICE, which doesn’t take into account appreciation. 

Oh, and another way to avoid PMI altogether is to do a “piggy-back” loan or second loan.  You would put 10% down, get a second loan for your other 10%, which would make up your 20% down, thus avoiding the PMI.  Your payment would be a little less than having PMI, but there are other challenges getting the second loan.  Doable, but not for everyone.

Nutshell — PMI isn’t all bad.  If it weren’t for PMI, we couldn’t do 3% down — or less than 20% for that matter.  Do you have that much saved?  I don’t and that’s another blog for another day.

FHA is trying to re-build its reserves again.  Back in October 2010, FHA lowered their UFMIP (Up Front Mortgage Insurance Premium) from 2.25% to 1% to somewhat offset the increase in the monthly MIP (Mortgage Insurance Premium) from .5% to .9%.  This certainly didn’t help FHA buyers with their monthly payments.  It made it so a buyer couldn’t qualify for as much home.  And it took the argument away that FHA has a cheaper payment than conventional financing because the mortgage insurance is less.

So, why did they do it in the first place if it negatively impacted the borrower?  It was necessary.  FHA is required to keep reserves as a government program.  They have paid out, like many conventional PMI (Private Mortgage Insurance) companies, insurance claims to lenders when FHA insured homes go into default.  Unfortunately, they are still under the 2% reserves they are required to have and again, have to increase the MIP.

With case numbers* dated on or after April 18th, be prepared to see your FHA payment rise if you’re in the buying market.  This monthly figure in your payment will go from .9% to 1.15%.  On a $150,000 loan, that makes a $30/month difference.  For some, this may halt a transaction in its tracks.  This isn’t what anyone wants.

Unfortunately, you can’t change when you get an offer accepted.  The advice I can give, especially if you’re tight for qualifying, is to find a home sooner than later and get your purchase agreement to your lender ASAP.  It doesn’t take much for them to order the case #, but it will be a huge bummer if it doesn’t happen.   And, believe it or not, conventional loans, if you qualify, may actually have a lower payment for mortgage insurance — making the argument now favor conventional financing.

Still, some buyers will HAVE to use FHA.  Why? 

• FHA is more lenient on credit scores and allows for “creating” alternative credit.  So, if you don’t have a credit score, you could get FHA financing combined with a first time buyer program.  As of now, the first time buyer programs only require 620 for the mid-score using FHA financing.  Conventional financing will require a higher figure — 680+, if not even 720 or higher. 

• FHA also allows non-occupant co-borrowers to help qualify for the loan.  Let’s say part of your income is salary and some is commission and that income started a year ago.  Though you know you can count on it, lenders won’t for qualifying.  Commission income requires a 2-year history to establish a pattern.  Other income of this nature would be tips, self-employment, bonus and overtime.  Without 2 years, you can’t use it to qualify.  However,  if you had a family member co-sign with you, your qualifying ability could increase.  Keep in mind, my assumption is your family WON”T be paying your house payment, so you still need to use your head and stay within a payment range in which you’re comfortable.

• Did you know FHA offers job-loss protection?  I bet many people, including financing professionals, don’t know this.  If you can’t make your payments due to a job loss, FHA could pay up to 12 months of your house payment to your lender so you don’t fall behind.  The amounts you get will be added to your loan on the end — FHA is nice, but not that nice! 

• Another reason people may choose/need FHA financing is for rehab.   A loan type, called the 203K loan, offers rehab assistance that is added to the purchase price.  You still pay a lower amount for the home, but we add the fees and repair bid to the purchase price.  Your 3.5% down is figured on that higher number.

Long and short — if you have to do FHA, I suggest getting a purchase agreenment prior to April 18th.  Otherwise, prepare to pay the price when the 18th rolls around.  So stop waiting for something  better to happen with the market.  It’s not going to happen.  Get pre-approved and get out there and look! 

*Case number — a number assigned to a loan and a property address.  Lenders enter the property information into the FHA system, which then generates this number.   It’s like a social security number for the house.  If the current borrower doesn’t buy the home, and another person does using FHA financing, the case number will still attach to the address.  This also means if an appraisal was done, the appraisal sticks too and is used by the new lender.

I can’t believe how quickly the third Thursday of the month came!  Wow.  I’m ready to educate you on the home-buying process.

The FREE seminar starts at 6:30 and ends between 7:30 and 8pm.  This seminar has been presented many times and continues to be a successful avenue for first time buyers to get their feet wet on the process of buying  home.  Be prepared to learn what you need to do starting with the pre-approval from a lender to getting the keys at closing.  There are a lot of steps in-between but if you’re familiar with them, the process will be much smoother. 

Needless to say, the market is a little upside down.  Things have and are changing daily with regards to down payment, credit requirements, as well as documents needed to verify assets or income.  What hasn’t changed are the great opportunities to get into a home at a great value, pay as little as $750 out of your pocket AND take advantage of some great programs made especially for you.

I will be honored with the presence of my first time buyer partner, Steve Howe.  He will address the other “stuff” you need to know about making an offer, inspections and the process in general.

Our goal for the evening is to give you the information you need to feel comfortable about setting foot into the world of buying a home and eventually, home-ownership.  We want to educate and honestly hope you will gain a clear understanding of the process, as well as the great opportunities the market has to offer you right now.

Please RSVP to Cheryl by clicking here.  You can bring as many guests as you want and most importantly, come with questions!  See you tonight.

Believe me; I ask myself this daily.  You hear that you need 20% down to get financing or sterling credit.  And though these are GREAT attributes, they aren’t a guarantee that you will get a mortgage OR that you won’t have to go through a few hurdles.  It used to be so easy to get financing.  It wasn’t that we just handed money out to anyone, though there were people who did and look where that got us.  It’s not just them; it’s the lenders that accepted high risk buyers and did deals that should have never been done.  This is neither here nor there.  Right now, we need to focus on what the rules or guidelines are NOW, not what they used to be.  Those days are gone my friends.

Let’s start with the simplest issue I see today and the piece that has had the most changes — CREDIT.  Let’s talk about credit scores first.  Way back when, credit scores mattered; but they weren’t as much of a guage as they are now.  What I mean by that is we were able to create credit for people if they had lower scores or if they had NO scores.  It may have been acceptable to help someone who had lower scores, let’s say 560, if we could show clean credit on alternative sources such as insurance, utilities, rent, cell bills, etc — this is how we “created” credit.  And, if there was a clean credit history in the last 12 months, this deal could have probably worked.  Now, the line is drawn.  For the most part, you will need scores AND the middle of the 3 scores (most of us have a score from each bureau – Experian, Equifax and TransUnion) must be at least 620 or higher.  This is NOW.  I am guessing in the next few months, or sooner, most investors will be at 640, as some have already taken that leap.

Still referring to credit, you now need at least THREE tradelines (an item of credit on your credit report) AND they each must have 12 months’ history.  Plus, these lines need to be current.  Let’s say you haven’t done anything with your credit for a few years because you worked abroad.  You may have great credit scores because, before you left, you did a good job managing your credit.  Unfortunately, most, if not all, of your tradelines will be older in terms of the last active date.  This is one of the things that’s catching people and making it so they can’t get a loan.  It’s a shame really because you can tell they’re good at making payments and are responsible.  Thing is, the score isn’t a true representation of their credit since it doesn’t have current information reporting.  There is one exception to this rule, as of now.  The 3 main first time buyer programs, CityLiving, Dakota County Bond and MN Housing, in conjunction with an FHA loan, will allow less than 3 tradelines and less than the 12 month history.  If there is a score, it must still be over 620, however.  With the first time programs, we would work on creating credit and we WOULD need to find 3 items of credit to have added to our credit report — again, car insurance, utilities, layaway plans, healthclub memberships, utilities, etc., are all items we can use to create your history.  And by the way, this will NOT help your score as we do this on our credit report we pulled.  This does not get reported to the credit bureaus.

Another fun credit change that is COMING, and fast — Fannie Mae is requiring that lenders verify the borrower’s credit prior to closing.  It’s under the new Loan Quality Initiative.   Some Minnesota lenders have already put this in motion.  The interpretation of pulling credit prior to closing is within 48 hours of closing.  So, in my article, “Things Not to Do”, you learned that while in the loan process, don’t open new accounts or close accounts.  Well, this just became CRUCIAL to follow.  If you open a new account, just have a creditor check your credit for a possible new account, increase balances on what you owe, or anything … your approved, ready-to-go-to-closing loan could be un-approved.  For instance, the credit pull or increase in balances, could have dropped your score under what your approval requires.  Or, the new debt now makes it so your ratios are too high for qualifying.  If you want to deal with stress or the possibility of not closing on a home, then feel free to mess with your credit.  My advice is far different and will be quite bold.  If you want your loan to stay approved, DO NOT, under any circumstances, open new credit, consider opening new credit so your credit has to be pulled by another lender or increase your balances on your current debts.  This could make or break whether you close on your home or not.  There is no first time buyer exception to this either, so my advice stands in all circumstances — Just Don’t!

What else is making it hard to get financing?  How about qualifying ratios?  This is how a lender determines what you qualify for.  We use your gross monthly income and run some calculations.  In most cases, the “debt ratio” is the most common one for us to look at.  We want to make sure your new house payment PLUS all other obligations, does not exceed the program guidelines.  Essentially, for most loans, that means not spending more than 45% of your income toward the new housepayment and your other debts.  PMI companies (private mortgage insurance) have put their guidelines on this too.  Many PMI companies require a ratio of 41% or less.  Even though you may have an approval through an automated underwriting system, the PMI company could trump it and disapprove your loan due to excessive ratios.  I can remember the “days” when we saw ratios at 65%.  Now, was that a good underwriting decision?  Maybe, maybe not.  For an underwriter to make this call, the borrower must have excessive compensating factors, such as plenty of money left over after closing, good credit scores as well as good job stability.

This is a small sampling of the changes in the loan industry.  They are a few of the guideline changes that have impacted much of the business I do.  So, in answer to the blog’s title question … yes, many people can get loans.  No, you don’t need 20% down and sterling credit.  Fortunately, FHA is a great loan requiring only 3.5% down and more leniency with credit.  FHA also allows us to go a little higher in ratios and doesn’t limit us to the 45%.  I am not saying we can go over that just willy nilly.  That’s not the case.  We can go a little higher if, and only if, there are good compensating factors.  And I bet you didn’t know this (well, unless you read the blog), City Living and Dakota Bond programs ONLY allow FHA loans or VA, no conventional.  And don’t forget FHA and their guidelines in regards to disputed accounts.  This just adds another item on the checklist of things we have to watch for in order to make sure you can get approved for a loan.

Enough already, huh?  That’s all I have to say.  There are just too many variables that if it’s something YOU can control, you should.  You may want to check out our office blog titled Pain in the Assets – this goes over another important piece to your loan puzzle.  With all that can go wrong in the loan process now due to guideline changes, title issues or bank issues, we need all the humor we can get, so hopefully you like our article.  I’d love to do your loan right the first time by educating you BEFORE things become an issue.

Huh? What dispute? The one I am having with my roommate or with my parents about buying a home? You may have many disputes going on in your life. The one I am referring to is a dispute you started yesterday or 10 years ago with a creditor.

If you’ve been one to check your credit or maybe have had some issues in the past, you may have seen erroneous “tradelines” on your credit report.  A tradeline is an item of credit — car loan, credit card, mortgage, student loan,etc.  Now, if I were you I would be all over that like a bee to honey.  I’d contact the creditor and “dispute” the inaccurate information.  Wouldn’t you?  The whole goal is to get the right things reporting on your report, not items that don’t reflect your score and ability to pay on time.  True.  BUT one little catch.  Though you’re trying to BETTER your credit situation, you are actually making it harder to get financing.

Seriously?  Helping your credit/disputing an account = tough time getting a loan.  Tough to follow that logic,huh?  FHA is the most popular loan right now and the most lenient when it comes to credit scoring, as well as only requiring 3.5% down.  However, they have this little guideline that has been creating BIG issues for folks getting home loans.  The deal is, if you have disputed an account on your report, regardless of what the dispute consists of, your loan guidelines just got stricter.  Yes, your loan qualifications got tighter because you were trying to help your score improve.  Does that make sense?  Nope, not to me, but lately, many of the “rules” and changes have caused me to scratch my head quite often.

So, what changes with your underwriting guidelines?  For one, your loan must be manually underwritten.  90% of my loans are run through and approved through AUS (automated underwriting system).  Information about you in … decision on a loan for you out.  Slick and easy.  Your file is still processed, verified and still gets in front of an underwriter for the final stamp of approval.  In a manual underwrite, it doesn’t matter what the loan decision is through the AUS.  It’s no longer eligible for this to move to the underwriter faster and with more assurances of getting  your final approval.  It now has to be reviewed in depth and documented in depth in order for an underwriter to make a decision.

The rules to follow:

• Your ratios cannot exceed 31/43%.  This means you cannot spend over 31% of your GROSS monthly income toward your house payment, OR over 43% of your gross monthly income toward your house payment and other monthly debts.  This is concrete; no wiggle room here.  We will use the lesser payment for qualifying when choosing the payment you can be approved for.
• We must get traditional VOE’s and VOD’s (verification of employment and deposits)  So, even though you provided me with W2′s and paystubs, as well as bank statements, we must still get this information from a 3rd party.  No fun especially since some banks and some employers charge a fee to give us that information.  Unbelievable.
• We must do a VOR which is a verification of rent.  Important that we confirm you make rent payments on time.  Don’t worry if you’re not renting and with family; this won’t hurt your chances of getting a loan.
• The biggest one — you must have 2 months of reserves.  In layman’s terms, that means after closing, you need 2 months of your PITI payment leftover.  This can include retirement.  Here’s the thing.  Most first time buyers have a hard enough time coming up with their down payment or minimum investment depending on the first time program the buyer uses.  Now you’re saying we need money left over?  Yup and it hurts.

So how do you combat this?  Well, there may be a way to work on getting the dispute removed.  For instance, you could contact the creditor and tell them you don’t want to dispute the account any longer.  About 30 days after you call, we can re-pull credit to make sure the verbiage “account in dispute” has been removed.  It’s not an ideal situation, BUT, it would allow for a faster decision, more leniency on what you qualify for and NO requirement to have money leftover after you close, though there is nothing wrong with that!

The moral of this story — don’t wait to find a house to make an offer to find out you might have to wait due to this rule.  Make sure you’re getting pre-approved with a lender that knows these guidelines and looks for them when reviewing your report.  Also, there are people I can refer you to with regard to credit restoration if you’re in that boat.  Let me help you get ready for the biggest purchase of your life.  Knowledge is power and the more you know and can prepare for now will save a lot of headaches and stress when you do buy.  I think you’ll have enough of that just from doing something new!

What is the Take Credit program?  It’s a great opportunity to save money yearly on your taxes.  And what a better time to think about taxes when we are so entrenched in them right now!! 

Take Credit is a Mortgage Credit Certificate program, not a loan – it gives you a credit EACH year in the amount equal to 20% of the mortgage interest you claim yearly to use toward your tax LIABILITY.  Okay, so that’s weird … who wants a tax liability?  Wouldn’t it be better to get money back?  Great questions!  You actually WANT to owe money at the end of the year.  To make this so, you would increase your W4 exemptions for federal withholdings.  This way, you’ll get more money back in your paychecks, pay less in for taxes to the government and then, will have a liability that you can use this credit against.

First time buyers can take advantage of this program in the city boundaries of Minneapolis and St. Paul.  You must be a first time buyer, which means you could not have owned a primary residence in the last three years.  We prove this fact by getting the last three years of your tax returns.  Here are some numbers to know for limits:

$83,900 – maximum household income for 1-2 people

$92,290 – maximum household income for 3+

$276,870 maximum sale price limit

There is no “special” rate for this program because again, it’s not a loan.  You will use this with an investor that allows for the MCC.  So I suppose you want a visual?    I can do that, but first, one thing to know if you don’t … 100% of  your interest on your mortgage as a homeowner is tax deductible.  With this program, that is reduced by the 20% credit, so now you can only write off 80% of that interest.  For example (finally, huh?):

$175,000 Loan Amount

5.5% Example Rate on a 30-Year Fixed

$994  Monthly Principal and Interest Payment

$9566 Total Interest Paid in Year One

$1913 — 20% of the Total Interest Paid, Mortgage Credit

That’s a pretty big number to be able to have as a liability.  Think about it.  If you were normally getting $2000 BACK, then you have $3900 to work on getting throughout the year by changing your W4s.  How do you even start determining what that W4 change should be?  You can certainly see your HR person or accountant.  Or, you can visit a great IRS website to run some scenarios.  Doesn’t it seem like you’re taking money from the government??  Let’s not go that far, but hey, I am sure they owe you something!!

A few things to note.  The MCC program cannot be used with a Mortgage Revenue Bond program, i.e. first time buyer program that uses interest-free bonds to give you a lower-than-market rate.  This program DOES have a recapture tax, which I will address in Tips & Tidbits post soon.  You can do a FHA, VA or Conventional financing and the loan must be a fixed rate.  With rates as low as they are on 30-year mortgages, it would be silly to do an Adjustable Rate Mortgage anyway.  Something you may be wondering … is it a “use it or lose it” kind of program?  Sort of.  You can carry over any unused portion for up to three years.  So let’s say in the example above you owe $1000 to the government.  Due to your credit, you owe NOTHING, but you still have $913 to use for next year’s taxes, which means you need to get on adjusting your withholdings up ASAP.  Let’s say your liability is actually $2000.  Then, you still owe the IRS money, but in that example, it’s only a mere $87.  Pretty sweet deal, huh?

One of the best parts??  If getting money toward your liability wasn’t enough, right?  If you do FHA financing, which so many people are doing these days, we can use that 20% as assistance to help you QUALIFY for more!  Yes, you heard me right.  So, using that same example of your $1913 credit.  If you divide that by 12 months, your credit PER MONTH for qualifying purposes is $159.  In real dollars, that means if you kept the same house payment, you could INCREASE your purchase power by about $20,000, depending on property taxes and homeowner’s insurance.

So why don’t people do this program or why haven’t you heard of it?  First, most lenders don’t do the MCC program and why, I don’t know.  There is a cost to you of $575.  You can see though, that one-time fee is WAY worth the financial benefits you will see yearly.  So, if you need help qualifying for more house in the cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis … I can help and would love to!

When I titled this, I could hear Tina Turner singing in my head.  Maybe I could add her soundtrack playing in the background of her big hit … or not!  Let’s get to the topic at hand here — credit.

“Check your credit once a year” is what you’re told all the time.  Open credit cards so you can develop a score.  Close those unwanted accounts.  Certainly, some of this is good advice, but not all of it will help.  More and more in this current market, credit scores have become crucial in determining whether you can get credit or not.  In the last year, scores have become the FIRST thing companies look at when choosing to extend credit.  It didn’t used to be this way! 

But what makes up a credit score?  How do you “get one” if you don’t have it?  What types of things DON’T affect your credit score?  These are all questions and topics that will be discussed at the next Credit Seminar, Thursday, February 18th from 5:30-6:15 pm.  It’s located at the Cornerstone office — 436 Gateway Boulevard, Burnsville, MN.  To RSVP for this event, please contact Cheryl at 952-808-0042.  Bring your questions!

If you want more information about buying your first home, feel free to stay for our First Time Home Buyer Seminar from 6:30-8pm.  Long night, but may be worth your while to learn about the important things surrounding the home-buying process.

Nothing like starting a post with a negative — things NOT to do.  It would be better to say what you should do, but as a loan officer that sees so many things that need fixing, I would rather warn vs. fix.  If you’re a first time home buyer, please take the time to look this list over.  Admittedly,  because of it, I sometimes get questions that aren’t really an issue for the pre-approval process.  I totally appreciate that my clients are reading the “instructions” and are checking with me ahead of time.  I would rather be safe than sorry.

Let’s start with the biggest offender — deposits into your bank accounts.  While in the process, please don’t make any deposits other than your regular payroll deposits.  And, please resist the urge to transfer money back and forth between accounts.  So go ahead, ask the question … why is it any of our business what you do in your accounts, right?  I respect that question, but of course, have a valid response.  The thing is, FHA, VA and Conventional guidelines all require that we “source” the funds for down payment.  If there are deposits, we need to verify you didn’t take a loan out (and if so, we need to know the terms of the loan to consider the payment as a debt) or make sure it wasn’t a gift.  The loan type you’re doing needs to allow for gifts and we would need to document the gift and donor.

What else are we going to restrict you from?  Another biggie — please don’t mess with your credit.  For example, don’t start closing unused accounts.  History makes up about 15% of your credit score and if they go away, you will reduce your history.  This is super important for first time buyers since they might not have a long history to begin with.  A few other things — obviously, don’t open any new accounts, pay off any collections (unless your lender told you to do this) or pay off debts.  New accounts mean you’ve had inquiries into your credit.  These can negatively affect your score.  I advise clients NOT to pay collections.  Main reason is tracking, and for the most part, only VA guidelines require collections to be paid.  I would rather you pay it off at closing.  This way we have a paper trail of payment vs. assuming you’ll get a receipt from the collection agency.  Good luck with that!  Oh, and the reason I keep mentioning scores is that they are crucial to whether you can get financing or not.  These days, you must have a 620 score or higher to get a loan.  I have a perfect example of a current client who had a score of 622.  We were golden; but her price range limited what was available to look at.  Finally, five months later, she’s ready to go and I had to pull new credit (reports are good for 120 days).  Due to her increasing her debt-load with balances over 50% of the available credit limit, her score dropped to 618.  UGH!  There is seriously nothing we can do but wait.  On her end, she can use some of the down payment money she was saving to pay down these cards to less than that 50% mark.  Since she had no lates or other derogatory things, this is the only reason her scores decreased.  The moral of the story … don’t mess with credit, which can even mean, don’t increase your balances on revolving lines such as credit cards.

As much as a new job is really cool, make sure you’ve consulted with your lender prior to this change.  We just ask that you don’t change your pay structure or how you’re compensated.  Let’s say you’re currently salaried and you have a great opportunity to earn more by changing how you’re paid (which is usually more a benefit to the employer in the beginning).  So now, you make a base salary, lower than what you were previously making,  but have a whole lot more potential top make more by receiving commissions.  This may be true, but you may have just unknowingly sabotaged your ability to get a loan.  Why?  Well, all loan types require you have a 2-year history of commissions; otherwise, we can’t use the income for qualifying.   This is true with bonus, self-employment, tips and overtime — all need a 2-year history.  So don’t go from being employed to starting your own business either.  This will hinder your financing plans big time.

The next one seems super obvious … well, I think so.  Don’t make any large purchases such as a new car, furniture or appliances.  This covers a few of the areas above.  For instance, if you’re offered a no-payment option for 2 years on appliances, you may say “sweet” and go for it.  Couple things happen here — your credit is checked, so an inquiry is made which may bring your score down.  Also, even though you don’t have payments, we still have to count a payment on this new debt.  This could make it so you can’t buy the home you have a purchase agreement on.   That would not be good, for all parties involved, you especially!

Last is my rule … don’t ever feel like you can’t ask a question.  There is never a right or perfect question, as well as a dumb question.  I have an “open question” policy.  My hope is I can assist you with your loan, and during the loan process, make sure I’m answering your questions before you even have them.

There you have it; a few things that you shouldn’t do while in the loan process.  Believe me, following these “rules” will make the process so much smoother.  It’s easier to paper trail prior to an event happening vs. having to chase papers since it’s already done.  Just say “no” to the above so we can say yes to your loan approval.