First Stop 4 Home Loans

Are you currently pre-approved wth FHA financing?  For many, this is the way to go — minimum down payment (3.5%), lower acceptable credit scores (620) and higher allowable seller paid costs (6% of the sale price which will be lowered soon to 3%).  One thing that always frustrates FHA borrowers is the Up-Front Mortgage Insurance Premium (UFMIP) and the monthly mortgage insurance.  Why is FHA charging twice for the same thing?  Let me explain.

First, it’s good to know that FHA is self-insured.  So, if you default on your loan, they provide insurance for the investor.  Whereas on a conventional loan, you pay Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) to insure the lender in case of default.  The PMI is provided from an outside company and is required on all loans with less than 20% down.  (Of course, if you qualify, you may be able to get  the new MN Housing program that DOESN’T require PMI or a down payment!)

FHA requires the UFMIP on all loans and a monthly amount on all loans regardless of your down payment situation — minimum down of 3.5% or 50% down — you’ll still have it.  One thing many people don’t know is what ELSE the FHA insurance covers.  Let’s say you lose your job and are having a tough time making your house payment.  Like most, you don’t want to lose your home.  FHA’s insurance covers job-loss protection.  FHA may pay up to 12 months of your house payment to save your home and keep your payments on time with your lender.  Those payments will be added on to your loan on the back end.

Right now, the UFMIP is 2.25% of the loan amount.  In all of the deals I do, this is rolled into the loan, not paid out of pocket.  This will raise your payment because your loan amount increases.  The monthly amount is .55% of the loan amount, divided by 12 to get the monthly figure. 

Here is what you need to know:  any new case numbers* assigned ON or AFTER 10/4/10 will have different UFMIP and monthly MIP.  Good news is the UFMIP will DECREASE to 1% of the loan amount vs. the current 2.25%.  This is a good change.  The annual premium, or monthly amount, will be INCREASING to .90% of the loan amount — almost double what it was at before.  So what, right?  Well, let’s look at the numbers.

Scenario:

• Purchase price $200,000
• Rate at 4.5% over 30 years
• 3.5% down or 96.5% LTV

Old MIP Scenario

• Loan with UFMIP is $197342
• UFMIP that is included in above loan amount is $4342
• Monthly MIP is $88
• Principal and interest is $991

NEW MIP Scenario

• Loan with UFMIP is $194930
• UFMIP included above is $1930
• Monthly MIP is $145
• Principal and interest is $988

Difference?  Payment is $54/month HIGHER with the new plan.  That means, in real terms, you can afford about $7500 LESS in purchasing power.  Sure, that’s the downside.  But, if you stick with your home for 7 years, you will actually “wash” the difference.  Though FHA will get more of your money upfront (vs being rolled into the loan), you will have MORE equity at that time than with the original plan).  And, stay in your home 10 years, the MONTHLY amount should drop off assuming you’ve reached 22% equity in your home based off your original purchase price.

The moral of the story — buy as soon as you can if you’re using FHA.  $7500 in buying power is HUGE!  Most of you will just stay in your home for 5-7 years if it’s your first home so the “wash” really doesn’t matter.  And who really wants a payment that is over $50/mo more?  Not me.

So, when’s the time?  Now!  Why is it now?  To save on your monthly payment and BUY more home! 

*case number:   the number assigned by FHA for your property purchase.  It follows the address and is how an appraisal is ordered.

Believe me; I ask myself this daily.  You hear that you need 20% down to get financing or sterling credit.  And though these are GREAT attributes, they aren’t a guarantee that you will get a mortgage OR that you won’t have to go through a few hurdles.  It used to be so easy to get financing.  It wasn’t that we just handed money out to anyone, though there were people who did and look where that got us.  It’s not just them; it’s the lenders that accepted high risk buyers and did deals that should have never been done.  This is neither here nor there.  Right now, we need to focus on what the rules or guidelines are NOW, not what they used to be.  Those days are gone my friends.

Let’s start with the simplest issue I see today and the piece that has had the most changes — CREDIT.  Let’s talk about credit scores first.  Way back when, credit scores mattered; but they weren’t as much of a guage as they are now.  What I mean by that is we were able to create credit for people if they had lower scores or if they had NO scores.  It may have been acceptable to help someone who had lower scores, let’s say 560, if we could show clean credit on alternative sources such as insurance, utilities, rent, cell bills, etc — this is how we “created” credit.  And, if there was a clean credit history in the last 12 months, this deal could have probably worked.  Now, the line is drawn.  For the most part, you will need scores AND the middle of the 3 scores (most of us have a score from each bureau – Experian, Equifax and TransUnion) must be at least 620 or higher.  This is NOW.  I am guessing in the next few months, or sooner, most investors will be at 640, as some have already taken that leap.

Still referring to credit, you now need at least THREE tradelines (an item of credit on your credit report) AND they each must have 12 months’ history.  Plus, these lines need to be current.  Let’s say you haven’t done anything with your credit for a few years because you worked abroad.  You may have great credit scores because, before you left, you did a good job managing your credit.  Unfortunately, most, if not all, of your tradelines will be older in terms of the last active date.  This is one of the things that’s catching people and making it so they can’t get a loan.  It’s a shame really because you can tell they’re good at making payments and are responsible.  Thing is, the score isn’t a true representation of their credit since it doesn’t have current information reporting.  There is one exception to this rule, as of now.  The 3 main first time buyer programs, CityLiving, Dakota County Bond and MN Housing, in conjunction with an FHA loan, will allow less than 3 tradelines and less than the 12 month history.  If there is a score, it must still be over 620, however.  With the first time programs, we would work on creating credit and we WOULD need to find 3 items of credit to have added to our credit report — again, car insurance, utilities, layaway plans, healthclub memberships, utilities, etc., are all items we can use to create your history.  And by the way, this will NOT help your score as we do this on our credit report we pulled.  This does not get reported to the credit bureaus.

Another fun credit change that is COMING, and fast — Fannie Mae is requiring that lenders verify the borrower’s credit prior to closing.  It’s under the new Loan Quality Initiative.   Some Minnesota lenders have already put this in motion.  The interpretation of pulling credit prior to closing is within 48 hours of closing.  So, in my article, “Things Not to Do”, you learned that while in the loan process, don’t open new accounts or close accounts.  Well, this just became CRUCIAL to follow.  If you open a new account, just have a creditor check your credit for a possible new account, increase balances on what you owe, or anything … your approved, ready-to-go-to-closing loan could be un-approved.  For instance, the credit pull or increase in balances, could have dropped your score under what your approval requires.  Or, the new debt now makes it so your ratios are too high for qualifying.  If you want to deal with stress or the possibility of not closing on a home, then feel free to mess with your credit.  My advice is far different and will be quite bold.  If you want your loan to stay approved, DO NOT, under any circumstances, open new credit, consider opening new credit so your credit has to be pulled by another lender or increase your balances on your current debts.  This could make or break whether you close on your home or not.  There is no first time buyer exception to this either, so my advice stands in all circumstances — Just Don’t!

What else is making it hard to get financing?  How about qualifying ratios?  This is how a lender determines what you qualify for.  We use your gross monthly income and run some calculations.  In most cases, the “debt ratio” is the most common one for us to look at.  We want to make sure your new house payment PLUS all other obligations, does not exceed the program guidelines.  Essentially, for most loans, that means not spending more than 45% of your income toward the new housepayment and your other debts.  PMI companies (private mortgage insurance) have put their guidelines on this too.  Many PMI companies require a ratio of 41% or less.  Even though you may have an approval through an automated underwriting system, the PMI company could trump it and disapprove your loan due to excessive ratios.  I can remember the “days” when we saw ratios at 65%.  Now, was that a good underwriting decision?  Maybe, maybe not.  For an underwriter to make this call, the borrower must have excessive compensating factors, such as plenty of money left over after closing, good credit scores as well as good job stability.

This is a small sampling of the changes in the loan industry.  They are a few of the guideline changes that have impacted much of the business I do.  So, in answer to the blog’s title question … yes, many people can get loans.  No, you don’t need 20% down and sterling credit.  Fortunately, FHA is a great loan requiring only 3.5% down and more leniency with credit.  FHA also allows us to go a little higher in ratios and doesn’t limit us to the 45%.  I am not saying we can go over that just willy nilly.  That’s not the case.  We can go a little higher if, and only if, there are good compensating factors.  And I bet you didn’t know this (well, unless you read the blog), City Living and Dakota Bond programs ONLY allow FHA loans or VA, no conventional.  And don’t forget FHA and their guidelines in regards to disputed accounts.  This just adds another item on the checklist of things we have to watch for in order to make sure you can get approved for a loan.

Enough already, huh?  That’s all I have to say.  There are just too many variables that if it’s something YOU can control, you should.  You may want to check out our office blog titled Pain in the Assets – this goes over another important piece to your loan puzzle.  With all that can go wrong in the loan process now due to guideline changes, title issues or bank issues, we need all the humor we can get, so hopefully you like our article.  I’d love to do your loan right the first time by educating you BEFORE things become an issue.

Huh? What dispute? The one I am having with my roommate or with my parents about buying a home? You may have many disputes going on in your life. The one I am referring to is a dispute you started yesterday or 10 years ago with a creditor.

If you’ve been one to check your credit or maybe have had some issues in the past, you may have seen erroneous “tradelines” on your credit report.  A tradeline is an item of credit — car loan, credit card, mortgage, student loan,etc.  Now, if I were you I would be all over that like a bee to honey.  I’d contact the creditor and “dispute” the inaccurate information.  Wouldn’t you?  The whole goal is to get the right things reporting on your report, not items that don’t reflect your score and ability to pay on time.  True.  BUT one little catch.  Though you’re trying to BETTER your credit situation, you are actually making it harder to get financing.

Seriously?  Helping your credit/disputing an account = tough time getting a loan.  Tough to follow that logic,huh?  FHA is the most popular loan right now and the most lenient when it comes to credit scoring, as well as only requiring 3.5% down.  However, they have this little guideline that has been creating BIG issues for folks getting home loans.  The deal is, if you have disputed an account on your report, regardless of what the dispute consists of, your loan guidelines just got stricter.  Yes, your loan qualifications got tighter because you were trying to help your score improve.  Does that make sense?  Nope, not to me, but lately, many of the “rules” and changes have caused me to scratch my head quite often.

So, what changes with your underwriting guidelines?  For one, your loan must be manually underwritten.  90% of my loans are run through and approved through AUS (automated underwriting system).  Information about you in … decision on a loan for you out.  Slick and easy.  Your file is still processed, verified and still gets in front of an underwriter for the final stamp of approval.  In a manual underwrite, it doesn’t matter what the loan decision is through the AUS.  It’s no longer eligible for this to move to the underwriter faster and with more assurances of getting  your final approval.  It now has to be reviewed in depth and documented in depth in order for an underwriter to make a decision.

The rules to follow:

• Your ratios cannot exceed 31/43%.  This means you cannot spend over 31% of your GROSS monthly income toward your house payment, OR over 43% of your gross monthly income toward your house payment and other monthly debts.  This is concrete; no wiggle room here.  We will use the lesser payment for qualifying when choosing the payment you can be approved for.
• We must get traditional VOE’s and VOD’s (verification of employment and deposits)  So, even though you provided me with W2′s and paystubs, as well as bank statements, we must still get this information from a 3rd party.  No fun especially since some banks and some employers charge a fee to give us that information.  Unbelievable.
• We must do a VOR which is a verification of rent.  Important that we confirm you make rent payments on time.  Don’t worry if you’re not renting and with family; this won’t hurt your chances of getting a loan.
• The biggest one — you must have 2 months of reserves.  In layman’s terms, that means after closing, you need 2 months of your PITI payment leftover.  This can include retirement.  Here’s the thing.  Most first time buyers have a hard enough time coming up with their down payment or minimum investment depending on the first time program the buyer uses.  Now you’re saying we need money left over?  Yup and it hurts.

So how do you combat this?  Well, there may be a way to work on getting the dispute removed.  For instance, you could contact the creditor and tell them you don’t want to dispute the account any longer.  About 30 days after you call, we can re-pull credit to make sure the verbiage “account in dispute” has been removed.  It’s not an ideal situation, BUT, it would allow for a faster decision, more leniency on what you qualify for and NO requirement to have money leftover after you close, though there is nothing wrong with that!

The moral of this story — don’t wait to find a house to make an offer to find out you might have to wait due to this rule.  Make sure you’re getting pre-approved with a lender that knows these guidelines and looks for them when reviewing your report.  Also, there are people I can refer you to with regard to credit restoration if you’re in that boat.  Let me help you get ready for the biggest purchase of your life.  Knowledge is power and the more you know and can prepare for now will save a lot of headaches and stress when you do buy.  I think you’ll have enough of that just from doing something new!

Ahhh, the  market.  The market that is flooded with foreclosures — some that are in decent shape, some that are stripped of anything of value and homes that fall somewhere in between.  Here’s the dilemma that many buyers are experiencing … how do I buy that house when the lender won’t finance it due the condition it’s in?  There’s a great question.  With so many opportunities to get a great deal on a house right now, use first time buyer money and take advantage of a 40-year low in rates, how can anyone “make it happen”?

It’s called the FHA 203K loan.  A little background first on where the mortgage market is now.   Most buyers are using FHA financing, which stands for the Federal Housing Administration.  The main reason is the minimum down payment requirement of 3.5%.  Another reason for its popularity is being the closest thing to a “sub-prime” loan.  Now, I am not saying it’s like a sub-prime loan in the true meaning of it.  It is, however, the most lenient loan on credit score requirements.  You need a minimum mid-score of 620.  Conventional loans recently came back to the marketplace with a 3% down loan in part due to the PMI (private mortgage insurance) companies are willing to insure them.  To do 3%, you must be a first time buyer and in most instances, need scores over 700.  My experience these days supports that score being tough to come by.

Since most buyers are using FHA financing, many are unable to get offers accepted on foreclosed properties with any work that needs to be done.  Why?  A few reasons.  First, FHA is a little more strict on safety and structural issues with the homes.  When we send an appraiser to the property, they’re supposed to look for those things that could pose a hazard, such as missing cover plates on outlets, or the biggest one, peeling paint ANYWHERE in/on the home if the house was built before 1978.  Those homes have a higher chance of the paint being lead-based.  If you eat the paint chips, you could get sick — too many, like a little kid might, and you could die.  That’s scary and that’s why FHA is very clear on their position.  So, if any issues are found, they must be fixed prior to closing on the home   Second, many banks won’t accept FHA financing.  Due to the amount of work potentially required by an FHA appraiser, they don’t want to have a deal fall through if an FHA appraisal comes in with work orders.  In 99% of the cases, the bank won’t fix the issues.  Banks are known for selling the home “as is” and really, this makes sense.  They never lived there, so they really can’t comment on water damage or storm damage or stolen fixtures.  Yes, some people DO take the toilet and sink.  Seriously, what are they going to do with that stuff?  Nothing, I would assume – it’s just a way to say “I’ll show you bank for taking my house away”. 

So, if the bank won’t accept FHA financing and most people are buying this way, how can these foreclosures be sold?  The financing that can handle this is called the FHA 203K loan.  Under this program, there are two sub-programs, the streamline 203K and the full-blown 203K or “K” as I call it.  This is a rehab loan that would allow you to get into a home BEFORE those repairs are completed.  The repairs would be addressed in a bid which is added to your loan size.  There are only a handful of companies that do these loans, mostly because they are labor-intensive and carry a lot of risk.  Cornerstone Mortgage has been doing this for years and understands the niche that is filled by doing the rehab loans.

As I mentioned, there are two sub-programs.  The streamline “K” is a more condensed rehab loan.  The maximum addition to your loan size is $35000 including the “K” costs.  The main difference with the streamline vs. the full-blown “K” is that you cannot do any structural or foundation work on the streamline.  You can paint, carpet, replace the furnace, add A/C, change lighting, add a bathroom, do the roof and even something that isn’t re-habby at all like buying appliances.  Most importantl, you can fix those items that are required by the appraiser to bring the home to FHA standards.  Another REALLY cool thing about this streamline “K” is that Cornerstone CAN do a smaller version of this in conjunction with the MN Housing Finance Agency loan (max $15000 including “K” costs) and you could still get $5000 in assistance.  We can do the the regular version with both the City Living and Dakota County programs, which are programs that just received a big chunk of money at a low rate.  And speaking of rates, if you don’t use a first time program, then the rate on the 203K loans will be about 1/4 – 1/2% higher than a normal FHA loan.  Trust me when I say, this is a screaming deal even at a little higher rate.

The second sub-program is the full-blown “K”.  The loan amount that can be added to your primary loan is UNLIMITED, assuming two things — 1) you can qualify for the loan and 2) you stay under the FHA loan limits, which in the 11-county metro area are $365,000.  In this rehab program, you can do anything — like items mentioned above, doing an addition to the home and get this, even tearing down a home just as long as you re-build on the existing foundation.  Yes, seriously.  Of course, you’d have to get that home pretty darn cheap to keep a new home build under $365,000.

You may be thinking, ‘this is cool, but how do I qualify for this?’  Are there any special requirements?  Nope, not really.  You need the 620 score or higher, need to be able to qualify for the higher loan amount and need to do a little extra in terms of paperwork and hiring a contractor.  We have a team of awesome contractors that are ready to give a free bid based off what your needs are and what the inspection may bring to your attention.  We don’t require you to use our preferred contractor partners, BUT, we highly recommend it.  I can tell you stories as to why another time!

Okay, what’s the process?  More than likely, you won’t be looking for homes that need the work.  But, the appraiser may just require that work has to be done and now the 203K program becomes a necessity.  Essentially, you locate the home, make an offer using the 203K (since many bank-owned properties won’t accept regular FHA financing), we have an inspection and potentially have the contractor out there with you to assess the scope of work and provide a written bid.  This information goes to processing with your file and an appraisal is ordered using the purchase price PLUS the bid.  The home will be valued “as-is” and also given an after-repairs value.  Here’s an example of built-in equity.  I helped finance a townhome that  just required new flooring throughout and then the client decided to get appliances (were none in the home)  – home price was $115,000, bid items added up to $13000 — it appraised at $150,000.  WOW, that’s awesome.  The work, not that extensive at all nor value-enhancing per se, just brought the home to a level playing field with the other townhomes that are in good shape.

There is more to the process, but I see that this post has become quite long.  You can wake up now!!  To summarize, you DO have a way to do an FHA loan and still purchase a home that needs work or is bank owned.  We have the opportunity waiting to help you and I do profess that this is one of those programs I have done quite a bit and with great success.  I hope I can help you make the house you’re buying a “dream home”.

How do you get started buying your first home — short of actually looking at houses or driving around on a Sunday and visiting open houses?  There really is a “first” step in the home buying process.  It’s to get pre-approved.  Now, don’t mistake pre-qualify for pre-approval.  These are two totally different thing!  A pre-qualification is nothing more than gathering some info on your income, assets and debts to let you know the amount you can afford for a house payment and a sale price.  This process does not hold any water and certainly doesn’t tell a seller you can get home financing. 

Being pre-approved means a couple of things.  First, you’ve applied for a loan – which can be done via the phone, in person or mycompany  website which is the option many take.  Our online application is a secure site which will only take you about 5-10 minutes, depending on how long it takes you to type!!   A one-on-one meeting is not necessary at this time, BUT, I do suggest we meet PRIOR to you looking at homes.  There is a lot to learn about the process, the money you need to purchase a home and the different loan programs and first time buyer programs you could qualify for.  I would be doing you a huge disservice if we didn’t take the time to meet.  Generally, my meetings take 1-2 hours.  I try so hard to keep them manageable for you, but it’s my goal that you leave the appointment with a full understanding of what happens next.  And, you feel like ALL of your questions have been answered.

The second piece to a pre-approval is pulling your credit report.  The credit report is important for a few reasons.  First, regardless of whether you are buying your first home or fifth, you must have at least a 620 credit score.  Though it is true that loans insured by FHA (Federal Housing Administration) and VA (Veteran’s Administration) do not have minimum score requirements, it just doesn’t matter.  FHA and VA are not buying or servicing the loan — the end investor is.  THEY are the ones requiring the 620 score.  And, there are some investors that require a 640 score.  This part of the pre-approval puzzle has become crucial to qualifying for financing.  It didn’t used to be this cut and dry.

The third part is submitting your loan to an automated underwriting system or to an underwriter.  In order to confirm your pre-approval, it’s important that I collect documentation to support the information you provided on the loan application.  The following documents will be required from you to complete this process:

-most recent paystub

-last 2 years W2s AND last 2 years federal taxes (it’s the last THREE if you’re applying for a first time buyer program)

-most recent MONTH bank statement, all pages, all accounts

-copy of your driver’s license (this is part of the Patriot Act that came about due to 9/11)

-any court papers, such as bankruptcy, divorce or child support

Because everyone has a different situation, there may be more documents requested.  For instance, let’s say you had a $3000 deposit into your account from the sale of a car.  Your “extra” paperwork would include a copy of the title, cashier’s check you got for the sale and a copy of the blue book value to substantiate the value matches what you sold the car for.  Now you may be asking why this is any of our business, and truthfully, I would do the same thing too.  All lenders want to source the funds you receive.  If you have deposits other then income, then lenders want to know where the money came from — if it’s a loan, then we need verification of that and need to count payments in our debts.  If it’s a gift, then we need to document that according to the specific program you’re doing.  This can be a lot of back tracking which is why during our appointment, I will advise you what NOT to do while in the home-buying process.  It’s better to know what you need to get to verify deposits then having to re-create documentation that may not even exist.

One of the main reasons this is the FIRST STEP in the process is two-fold — first, it insures that you can get financing and two, you will know what price range you can look at, as well as what payment you’re comfortable with.  Sellers will require that you’re pre-approved.  And just so you know, all pre-approval letters are NOT created equal.  Just because a lender says you’re approved doesn’t mean this is true.  Some lenders don’t take the step of verifying the information provided.  Some don’t understand the rules of the first time buyer programs or don’t know the ins and outs of the loan type you’ve applied for.  The paper the letter is written on is sometimes worth more than the actual “pre-approval”.  More times than I can count, I was presented with a pre-approval letter from another company via the Realtors I work with.  Low and behold, they were coming to me to “save” the deal because indeed, the person was NOT pre-approved.  So, how can you tell?  I guess the only suggestion I have is to work with a reputable company, one that’s known for your special needs (i.e. first time buyer programs).  Listen to your agent’s advice.  Even then, they aren’t always connected to the right people.

Woohoo — you’re pre-approved.  Now what?  It’s time to get excited because the fun begins — you get to look at houses and find one that fits your needs, as well as your budget.  Speaking of budget.  This is a VERY important thing to keep in mind.  A lender can tell you your max payment is $1500, but in your heart and on paper, you know going over $1200 would put you in the poor house.  Staying withing your comfort zone is key to having a great home -buying experience.  I don’t plan to make your house payment so you would be wise to have a number in your head for that “max” payment you’re willing to exceed.  When you do put some numbers down as a budget, don’t forget things like insurance, meals out, entertainment, clothing, etc.  Many people forget these things — hey, even a coffee each day adds up!  Another note … being pre-approved with take a lot of disappointment away from the process.  If you start looking at houses you THINK you can afford and then come to find you don’t fall in that price range; you will be frustrated and bummed.  Believe me; I’ve seen it.  It’s better to know what your range is before you start looking — either on your own or with an agent.

So, take the first step to your home buying experience by getting pre-approved.  It’s the one piece of this home buying puzzle that will help all the other pieces fall into place.

What is the Take Credit program?  It’s a great opportunity to save money yearly on your taxes.  And what a better time to think about taxes when we are so entrenched in them right now!! 

Take Credit is a Mortgage Credit Certificate program, not a loan – it gives you a credit EACH year in the amount equal to 20% of the mortgage interest you claim yearly to use toward your tax LIABILITY.  Okay, so that’s weird … who wants a tax liability?  Wouldn’t it be better to get money back?  Great questions!  You actually WANT to owe money at the end of the year.  To make this so, you would increase your W4 exemptions for federal withholdings.  This way, you’ll get more money back in your paychecks, pay less in for taxes to the government and then, will have a liability that you can use this credit against.

First time buyers can take advantage of this program in the city boundaries of Minneapolis and St. Paul.  You must be a first time buyer, which means you could not have owned a primary residence in the last three years.  We prove this fact by getting the last three years of your tax returns.  Here are some numbers to know for limits:

$83,900 – maximum household income for 1-2 people

$92,290 – maximum household income for 3+

$276,870 maximum sale price limit

There is no “special” rate for this program because again, it’s not a loan.  You will use this with an investor that allows for the MCC.  So I suppose you want a visual?    I can do that, but first, one thing to know if you don’t … 100% of  your interest on your mortgage as a homeowner is tax deductible.  With this program, that is reduced by the 20% credit, so now you can only write off 80% of that interest.  For example (finally, huh?):

$175,000 Loan Amount

5.5% Example Rate on a 30-Year Fixed

$994  Monthly Principal and Interest Payment

$9566 Total Interest Paid in Year One

$1913 — 20% of the Total Interest Paid, Mortgage Credit

That’s a pretty big number to be able to have as a liability.  Think about it.  If you were normally getting $2000 BACK, then you have $3900 to work on getting throughout the year by changing your W4s.  How do you even start determining what that W4 change should be?  You can certainly see your HR person or accountant.  Or, you can visit a great IRS website to run some scenarios.  Doesn’t it seem like you’re taking money from the government??  Let’s not go that far, but hey, I am sure they owe you something!!

A few things to note.  The MCC program cannot be used with a Mortgage Revenue Bond program, i.e. first time buyer program that uses interest-free bonds to give you a lower-than-market rate.  This program DOES have a recapture tax, which I will address in Tips & Tidbits post soon.  You can do a FHA, VA or Conventional financing and the loan must be a fixed rate.  With rates as low as they are on 30-year mortgages, it would be silly to do an Adjustable Rate Mortgage anyway.  Something you may be wondering … is it a “use it or lose it” kind of program?  Sort of.  You can carry over any unused portion for up to three years.  So let’s say in the example above you owe $1000 to the government.  Due to your credit, you owe NOTHING, but you still have $913 to use for next year’s taxes, which means you need to get on adjusting your withholdings up ASAP.  Let’s say your liability is actually $2000.  Then, you still owe the IRS money, but in that example, it’s only a mere $87.  Pretty sweet deal, huh?

One of the best parts??  If getting money toward your liability wasn’t enough, right?  If you do FHA financing, which so many people are doing these days, we can use that 20% as assistance to help you QUALIFY for more!  Yes, you heard me right.  So, using that same example of your $1913 credit.  If you divide that by 12 months, your credit PER MONTH for qualifying purposes is $159.  In real dollars, that means if you kept the same house payment, you could INCREASE your purchase power by about $20,000, depending on property taxes and homeowner’s insurance.

So why don’t people do this program or why haven’t you heard of it?  First, most lenders don’t do the MCC program and why, I don’t know.  There is a cost to you of $575.  You can see though, that one-time fee is WAY worth the financial benefits you will see yearly.  So, if you need help qualifying for more house in the cities of St. Paul and Minneapolis … I can help and would love to!

If you’re in the loan process right now, your head is probably spinning with all the new information.  Throw in there a lot of references to insurance — insurance for the home (aka hazard insurance), for the mortgage company (aka PMI or MI) and title insurance.  Oh, and to confuse the matter more, you can actually purchase mortgage insurance on your loan (in case something happens to you, the loan will be paid).  What the heck is the deal with all these insurances and what is really protecting you?

I am so glad you asked.  Let’s just start with some explanatory definitions, then I will get to the meat of this.  Homeowner’s Insurance is insurance that covers your home and the contents in case of a catastrophe or burglary.  As lenders, your house is our collateral.  If something should happen to it, we want to make sure you have enough coverage to replace your home.  This is a policy you purchase with your current insurance agent or one I could refer you to. 

If you were to buy a townhome or condo, you may not need this type of insurance.  In most instances the homeowner’s association covers that with the owner’s association dues.  There are some changes that have occurred with investors in regards to requiring a separate policy.  If the association’s insurance policy only covers “studs out”, then you would need to buy a special policy called a HO-6 — basically, this will cover the “studs in”, which means, all your personal belongings along with cupboards, fixtures and appliances.  If the association does have the extra coverage, it is still advisable for you to get the HO-6 policy (just won’t be as expensive) to cover your personal belongings.  In this instance, proof of this would NOT be required at closing.

How about the “dreaded” Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) on conventional loans or Up-Front Mortgage Insurance (UFMIP) with FHA?  First of all, it’s not something to dread; it’s reality.  And in this day and time with all the private mortgage insurance companies that had to pay on claims due to foreclosure, it will never go away.  In a positive light, it allows you to do a minimum down program.  Anyway, the purpose for mortgage insurance is to insure the lender in case of default.  You remember AIG???  Who couldn’t forget the insurance  company that was bailed out … a few times, right?  They insured a lot of the high risk loans that were done in the past years.  No wonder it’s harder to get this type of insurance.  Only in the last few months have the PMI companies “let loose” a little to do 3% loans.  UFMIP is for FHA loans.  FHA is self-insured.  They have an up-front amount that is financed into your loan amount, as well as a monthly amount for insurance — which is lower than conventional insurance. 

Last, at least the last I intend to address, is Title Insurance.  This is the CHEAPEST insurance you will ever purchase.  There are two types of title insurance — lender’s and owner’s.  The lender’s policy is required to be purchased to insure the lender that they are in first lien position.  One of the title company’s jobs is to search public records at the county to check for any liens.  The title company can only find what is correctly recorded.  You have the  option to purchase a  policy for yourself, called an owner’s policy.  This protects YOU in the event any liens were to appear against the property that you didn’t incur.  For instance, let’s say that a few owners ago, a new roof was put on the home and the owners didn’t pay the contractor.  In order for the contractor to make sure he gets paid, he placed a lien against the home YOU’RE purchasing.  If recorded correctly, the title company will find this and require the seller to pay it off to give you free and clear title.  If, however, someone made a mistake at the county, then it may not show up.  Bummer deal is liens follow the address, NOT the person who incurred them.  Five years later you decide to sell and wah-la, a $5000 lien appears.  Hmmm — what to do?  You have a few options — pay it (cheerfully I’m sure :-D ), go to court to fight it or … drum roll please … at closing when you purchased your home, you purchased owner’s title insurance.  With this insurance, you pay ONCE, at closing, and it covers you for the ENTIRE time you own your home.  This insurance depends on the loan amount and sale price, but for first time buyers, it won’t be much more than $200 or so.  Paying just $200 to save $4000.  No brainer.  The two real estate attorneys I trust would NEVER let their clients close without it.  They spend way too much time fighting in court for other clients that don’t have the insurance.  Unpaid work is just an example of a type of lien, but there are more “opportunities” to have to use it — heirs to a property, divorce situation, many things that may put a  person in title to the home YOU own. 

The long and short — there are many types of insurance during this process.  The only one you have the CHOICE to purchase is the owner’s title insurance.  It’s a necessary, but cheap, evil and well worth the investment.  Just do it!

Let’s get on our horse and ride out of here before all you-know-what breaks loose with the coming FHA changes.  Okay, that’s a little dramatic … more like a lot dramatic.  Let’s get a grip on reality.  First of all, if you don’t know it, FHA is known for minimum down payment loans.  Right now, and with no change in sight, their down payment requirement is 3.5%.  Being that FHA is federally backed, they have lots of rules and stipulations to follow.

How about we get the “bad” news out of the way first. Please note the quotes. Any FHA loan requires something called Up Front Mortgage Insurance Premiums (UFMIP). FHA is self-insured which means they don’t use private mortgage insurance companies (PMI) to cover a portion of their risk if the loan defaults. This UFMIP is financed into the loan size which is currently equal to 1.75% of the loan amount. The change?? Starting April 5th, they will be increasing that to 2.25%. Why the increase? FHA has had to take a lot of losses due to the high foreclosure rates. They are supposed to keep 2% in their funds for this insurance — they are down to 1/2% — ouch. Hence the increase. So what does this mean to you? Not a lot. It’s about a $5/mo difference in your payment, depending on your loan amount. Calculate that out. $5/mo over year is $60/year and let’s say you live there 5 years — so $300. Doesn’t that seem so piddly? Imagine though that most loans that have been originated in the past 2 years have been FHA. That adds up fast!

This next change is so lame because it will neither help or hurt anyone. Why they have it is beyond me. Currently, FHA doesn’t have a minimum required credit score. The new rule requires buyers with a 580 score or less to put 10% down. OMG, 10% down. Bet you’re questioning what I said regarding a 3.5% down payment from my earlier comment. Reality — it’s a mute point. No investor buying an FHA loan will take a buyer with a score under 620 and some investors are moving toward 640. So, can you say lame with me???

Here’s the doozie that WILL affect you — we just don’t know when. They are predicting Spring/Summer. As of right now, FHA allows the seller to pay up to 6% of the sale price toward your closing costs and pre-paid expenses. Hitting us like a brick in the head, they will be reducing this to 3%! This is huge. Typically, asking the seller to pay 4-4.5% of the sale price gets you what you need. Though the lower the sale price, the higher the seller paids percentage needs to be due to the fixed closing costs that aren’t tied to the loan size. In real terms, instead of just needing 3.5% down payment, you will need to up your investment to about 4.5-5%. Yup, this is really going to hurt in the pocketbooks and savings of the buyers. It’s putting FHA on par with conventional financing which has always limited seller paid costs to 3% (with less than 10% down). FHA does allow gifts for down payment and closing costs.

And, not all changes are bad! Here is the good news — phew!  Of course only 25% of the changes are positive.  Well, that is a bummer.  We just have to deal.  For instance, this change has been effective since Feb. 1.  FHA has temporarily suspended the anti-flipping rule. The term “flipping” has quite a bad rap.  It’s really due to people buying a house at less than market value and turning it to sell for more when the buyer did NOTHING to it to warrant the additional increase in price.  This term gets tossed around like a salad — “I want to buy foreclosed homes and ‘flip’ them” — Whether it’s from friends, the media or even those programs on TLC, almost everyone gets the concept.   The rule, which is suspended for ONE year, said that a purchase agreement on a home HAD to be 90 days away from the date the title transferred to the seller. Whoopie, right? Why is this even important to you?   It’s opened the door to many more homes that you, as an FHA buyer, can actually put in the running. 

That’s about it in a lengthy nutshell! To recap, the two major changes you need to be excited/concerned about is the removal of the anti-flipping rule which is in effect now and the change in seller paid costs with an effective date in Spring.  Just stay tuned for more updates as they come.  And let’s get off our horses and actually enjoy what has changed for the better and sweat about the projected changes when they come.

If it wasn’t great enough that we just got a new issuance of money in the Dakota County area; we now have NEW first time buyer money in the Minnapolis and St. Paul area under the City Living Program. This money is just available in the geographical limits of the Minneapolis and St. Paul area, so no other areas of Hennepin County or Ramsey.  Having this program available is such good news. 

How do you qualify for this?  First, you must be a first time buyer, someone who has not owned a primary residence in the last THREE years.  There are income limits you must fall under and HOUSEHOLD income is calculated off all members in the household over age 18.  Here are the limits:

83,900   1-2 person household

92,290   3+ person household

There is also a purchase price limit of $376,870.  You cannot go over $1 above this!  I don’t think you’ll have any problem since this limit is quite sufficient to handle any properties that are perfect for first time home owners.  The sale price/purchase price limit is $376,870.  Another thing to know is NO personal property can be included in your purchase agreement.  That means anything that isn’t attached to the home — applicances are the most commom.  Don’t panic though — you will still be able to get these things agreed upon.  You definitely want to make sure you’re working with a knowledgable agent in this area.  I have a few partners that I can highly recommend!

Want the REALLY, REALLY good news?  Rates … and it’s all about rates isn’t it?  It shouldn’t be; but again, that’s another post.  Please note that you still must qualify for a regular loan.  Here’s the way I like to explain this.  As a buyer, you need to qualify or meet the guidelines for an FHA, VA or conventional loan.  Let’s call this the “Cake” you’re dying to eat!  Once you’ve got this qualification, then we can see if you meet the guidelines for the City Living program, which we’ll call the “Icing”.  If you’re like me — cake is ONLY good with icing!  So, again, you have to qualify for the cake and then have to meet the qualifications to get the icing drizzled all over it.  Nummy.  The “Sweet” taste of this is a rate of 4.75% on a 30-year OR a rate of 4.99% WITH 2% of the loan amount to be used toward down payment or closing costs.  Another important point, you DO need $750 of your own  money into the transaction, which cannot be a gift. 

They will FORGIVE this second loan if you occupy the home for 7 years.  If you sell under this time, the full amount you got for the second loan is due.  Fortunately, this loan is 0% interest and NO payments are ever due during your loan.  It’s like getting a “loan” from Mom and Dad — “just pay us back when you’re done with it”.  So, you sell, you pay back.

Since this is a first come first serve program, you definitely want to make sure that you’re not only pre-approved with a lender that knows these programs, but also knows how to explain the important nuances of them.  I can help you navigate the waters and make sure you’re sailing strong  during your trip as a first time home owner!!!!!!!